Flowering Plants

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Orange There are several sorts suited to house culture, and they
should be more frequently tried, as a well grown plant will have
flowers, green fruit and attractive golden oranges almost all the
time--to say nothing of its foliage beauty and delightful fragrance.
Their rest period should be given during November, December and January.

Otaheite Orange is the one most commonly grown for house culture, and
while the fruit is of no use for eating, it has the more valuable
advantage of remaining on the tree (which is eighteen to twenty-four
inches high) for months. Satsuma is another good sort. Kumquat (Citrus
Japonica) is also very attractive.

Oleander - Flowers

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Oleander A beautiful old-time favorite, with fragrant blossoms of
red, pink, yellow or white. Give a very rich soil and plenty of water
when growing. Rest after flowering. Cuttings are rather hard, but will
root with care.

Lemon Verbena - Flowering Plants

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Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citriodora) Many people consider this the
most delightfully fragrant plant grown. Certainly no window garden
should be without it. Early in September cut back old plants, if in the
garden, and pot up. New growth will quickly be made. Plants kept in pots
should be rested in early winter by keeping dry and cool. Spring
cuttings root easily.

Lemon - Flowers

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Lemon - The best lemon for house culture is the Ponderosa, or American
Wonder, of comparatively recent introduction. Most florists now have it.
Easily grown and a very attractive plant. The fruit is good to use.

Lantana - Flowers

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Easily grown flowering shrub, trailing in habit, with small
flower clusters of white, pink, red, yellow or orange. New dwarf
varieties best for pot culture. Cuttings root easily. I have never cared
for this plant, and its odor is not pleasant to most people.

Flowers - H. Hortensias

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H. Hortensia Japonica is the blue flowering variety; the color will
depend much, however, upon the soil. To make sure of the color, dissolve
one pound of alum in two quarts of ammonia, dilute with twenty gallons
water and use as a liquid fertilizer. Thomas Hogg is a beautiful pure
white, quite hardy. _H. h._ Otaksa, pink, is one of the most popular.

Hydrangea

2008-06-18T08:23:00.000-07:00

This is another popular flowering shrub, often had in bloom
inside in the spring, but personally I do not consider it suited for
such use. The flowers are rather coarse to bear close inspection, such
as a house plant must be subject to: they are far more effective in
masses out-of-doors or used as semi-formal decorations about paths or
stoops, for which purpose they are unsurpassed.

If you care to have them bloom indoors, get small plants from the
florist, or start cuttings of new growth in spring, taking shoots which
do not have buds. After flowering, cut back each branch and grow on, in
a cool airy place with slight protection from noonday sun. Take into the
house before frost, and gradually dry off for a rest of six weeks or
more in a cold room. Then start into growth.

Plants for flowering early in the spring outdoors should be treated in
the same way during summer, and wintered in the cellar, as directed
above. Take up to the light any time after first of March in the spring,
but be careful to harden off before setting outside.

The varieties of the hydrangea are several, some being entirely hardy
farther north than New York, but the sorts best for house and tub
culture are not. Most of them will come through some winters, but it
doesn't pay to take the chance.

Hibiscus

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One of the most brilliant flowering shrubs outside of the
azaleas, with single and double flowers. Give a warm, sunny spot. Large
plants can be stored in the cellar. Cuttings in spring or summer will
furnish new plants.

Grevillea robusta

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The Silk Oak is grown with the greatest ease and
makes an extremely graceful, beautiful plant, either by itself or as a
center for fern dishes, etc. Sow in March and grow on with frequent
shifts.

Genista

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A beautiful evergreen shrub, bearing freely in spring
clusters of pea-shaped yellow flowers, richly fragrant. Cut back after
flowering, and in fall put in a cold room, forty degrees, or a frame,
giving several weeks rest. Cuttings may be rooted readily in spring,
when pruning the plants.

Daphne

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is easily grown and very fragrant. As ornamental as
orange or lemon and very free flowering. Give almost no water in winter,
or store in cellar. Plants good for many years.

Browallia

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A very attractive flowering shrub, easily grown in a cool
room, with plenty of sunlight. Sow seeds in 4-inch pots in August,
thinning to three or four. Repot to 6 inches. Cuttings make good plants.
Best grown as standards.

Bouvardia

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Pink, white or red flowers, sweet scented. Propagated by
root cuttings, but as the plants are good for a number of years, the
best way is to get them from the florist. Old plants may be divided,
small enough to go into number three pots. Give either cuttings or
divisions about sixty degrees at night after potting, which should be in
spring, until put outdoors. Keep pinched to shape. Then bloom from late
fall to February.

Daphne, Genista, Grevillea robusta - SHRUBS

2008-01-24T17:51:00.000-08:00

Daphne --_D. odora_ is easily grown and very fragrant. As ornamental as
orange or lemon and very free flowering. Give almost no water in winter,
or store in cellar. Plants good for many years.

Genista --A beautiful evergreen shrub, bearing freely in spring
clusters of pea-shaped yellow flowers, richly fragrant. Cut back after
flowering, and in fall put in a cold room, forty degrees, or a frame,
giving several weeks rest. Cuttings may be rooted readily in spring,
when pruning the plants.

Grevillea robusta --The Silk Oak is grown with the greatest ease and
makes an extremely graceful, beautiful plant, either by itself or as a
center for fern dishes, etc. Sow in March and grow on with frequent
shifts.

Bouvardia, Browallia, - SHRUBS

2008-01-24T17:31:00.000-08:00

Bouvardia --Pink, white or red flowers, sweet scented. Propagated by
root cuttings, but as the plants are good for a number of years, the
best way is to get them from the florist. Old plants may be divided,
small enough to go into number three pots. Give either cuttings or
divisions about sixty degrees at night after potting, which should be in
spring, until put outdoors. Keep pinched to shape. Then bloom from late
fall to February.

Browallia --A very attractive flowering shrub, easily grown in a cool
room, with plenty of sunlight. Sow seeds in 4-inch pots in August,
thinning to three or four. Repot to 6 inches. Cuttings make good plants.
Best grown as standards.

B. elata - is especially valuable because of its deep blue flowers.
B.Jamesonii - is orange. Roezlii and Grandiflora, blue or white.

Aucuba, Azalea - SHRUBS

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Aucuba --The Gold Dust Plant: one of the beautiful shrubs and
especially valuable for decoration because doing well in such shaded
positions as inner rooms, or by doorways. Strong tip cuttings--six to
ten inches--can be rooted readily in the fall. Give a soil on the heavy
side.

Azalea --The azalea is the most beautiful flowering shrub--if not the
most beautiful of all winter flowering plants. With proper treatment an
azalea should do service for several years, becoming more splendid each
season.

You will probably get your plant when it is in full bloom. At this time,
and during the whole growing season, it requires abundant water. The
best way to make sure of giving it a thorough one, is to stand it for
half an hour in a pail of water. Keep it in a rather cool place, say
forty-five at night, and the flowering season, which should last several
weeks, will be prolonged.

With the azaleas you must do the work for next year's success as soon as
the flowering season is over. After repotting, keep in a temperature of
fifty to fifty-five degrees at night.

There are three types of azalea suitable for winter blooming, the
Indian, Ghent and Mollis, of each of which there are several kinds. The
Indian type has the advantage of not blooming without its leaves, as the
others do. The best way to select the varieties wanted is to purchase
when in bloom. It will not pay the amateur to attempt propagation.

Acalypha, Aralia, Ardisia - SHRUBS

2008-01-21T08:07:00.000-08:00

_Acalypha_--Valuable for its variegated foliage. For use in the house
root cuttings in early fall. The old roots, after cutting back, may be
kept on the dry side to furnish cuttings in spring for the garden
plants.

_Aralia_--Aralia (_Fatsia Japonica_) and _A. J. variegata_, especially
the last, are two of the most decorative plants one may have. They are
not widely known--very likely because they are difficult to propagate.
Easily kept. Get from florist.

_Ardisia_--(_Ardisia crenulata_) is the best red berried plant for the
house. It is a dwarf, with very beautiful dark green foliage. While kept
healthy it will be laden constantly with its attractive clusters of
berries, one crop lasting over the next. Seedlings make the best plants,
and are readily grown. Sow in January to April, and plants will flower
within a year and thereafter be perpetually decorated. Old plants can be
topped (see page 86) and make fine specimens. By all means give the
ardisia a place in your collection.

Abutilon --The Flowering Maple

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(Abutilon) is an old favorite, but well
worthy of continued popularity. It is practically ever-blooming, which
at once marks it as highly desirable. The pendulous flowers are very
pretty, coming in shades of pink, white, yellow and dark red. The
foliage is also beautiful, especially that of the variegated varieties,
than which very few plants are more worthy of a place in the window
gardener's collection.

New plants, which will grow and bloom very rapidly, are propagated by
cuttings rooted in the fall or spring. Give the plants when indoors
plenty of light. Old plants, for which there is not room in the window
garden, may be wintered almost dry in a cool place and allowing the
leaves to fall off.

SHRUBS - gardener's collection.

2008-01-21T07:53:00.000-08:00

The shrubs of dwarf habit available for growing inside in winter are
numerous and valuable. They include a number of the most attractive
plants one may have, and as a rule will stand more hardships in the way
of poor light, low temperature and irregular attention than any of the
other flowering plants.

They differ from the other flowering plants in several ways. They are
harder wooded; the resting spell is more marked and they make growth

and
store up energy for flowering _ahead_ of the blossoming season.

Their differences in habit of growth naturally involve differences in
treatment. In the first place, they are harder to propagate; in many
cases it is better for the amateur to get plants from the florist than
to try to raise them. This is not such a disadvantage as might at first
appear, because most of them can be kept for several years, only
improving with age.

The "snapping" test (page 30) will not apply to many of the shrubs when
taking cuttings. In this case they are made from the new growth after
it becomes firm and well ripened. It should be fresh and plump, and
rooting will be made more certain by bottom heat. Often cuttings of
hard-wooded plants, such as oleander, are rooted in plain water, in
wide-mouthed bottles hung in a warm place in the sun, the water being
frequently renewed or kept fresh with a lump or so of charcoal.

Many of the shrubs are beautiful for summer blooming on the veranda or
in large pots or tubs. These may be kept over winter safely by drying
off and keeping in a frost-proof cellar where they will get little
light. In this way they will come out again in the spring, just as hardy
shrubs do out-of-doors. The earth should not be allowed to get dust dry,
but should not be more than slightly moist; very little, and often no,
water is required, especially if mulching of some sort is put over the
earth in pots or boxes; but it should not be any material that would
harbor rats or mice. The leaves will fall off, but this is not a danger
signal, such plants being deciduous in their natural climates. It will
be best to keep such plants as are to be stored in the cellar, from the
time there is danger of frost until about November first, in an
outbuilding or shed, where they will not freeze. This makes the change
more gradual and natural. The temperature of the cellar should be as
near thirty-four to thirty-eight degrees as possible. About March first
will be time to start giving most plants so treated heat, light and
water again, the latter gradually.

The fact that growth is made in advance of the flowering period means
that the summer care and feeding of such plants is very important.
Plenty of water must be given, and frequent applications of liquid
manure or fertilizers, or top dressing. Flowering shrubs that bloom on
last season's wood, like hydrangeas, should be pruned just after
blooming.

Pansy, Salvia, Piqueria or Stevia serrata, Stocks - FLOWERING PLANTS

2008-01-13T07:27:00.000-08:00

Pansy --If wanted for winter blooming, take cuttings or start from
seed, as described for Daisy (_Bellis perennis_). The seed bed must be
kept cool and shaded.

Salvia --One of the most brilliant of all flowering plants. For winter
make cuttings in August, or take off suckers with roots at base of
plant. They like heat. Keep thoroughly sprayed to ward off red spider.

Piqueria or Stevia serrata --Another fragrant flower. Root cuttings in
January or February and grow on for blooming from November to February.

Stocks --What I said about snapdragons on page 64 might well be
repeated here. Start from seed in August or September. They are very
easily grown. In addition to their beauty--they resemble a spray of
small roses--is their entrancing fragrance. Only the double sorts are
good. There are many fine new sorts. Abundance, a beautiful delicate
pink, will be sure to arouse your enthusiasm.

Blogalaxia Tags: flores

Lobelia, Mahernia, Mignonette - FLOWERING PLANTS

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Lobelia --This favorite little plant bears starry blossoms of one of
the most intense blues found anywhere in the realm of flowers. Grown
easily from fall sown seed, or cuttings. Star of Ishmael and Kathreen
Mallard are two named varieties recently introduced and great
improvements.

Mahernia --(Honey-bell)--Of great value for its fragrance. Grow on from
summer cuttings.

Mignonette --Another flower owing its popularity to its fragrance.
Start winter plants by sowing in two-inch pots in July or August,
several seeds to a pot. As soon as well started, thin to the best plant.
Grow on, keeping cool and well pinched back. Give support. There are
several newer named varieties that are great improvements over the old
type, especially in size of spike. Colossal, Allan's Defiance, Machet,
are all fine sorts.

PLANTS FROM SEED

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The instructions usually given are to cover flower seeds to from three
to five times their own depth. You may, if you like, take a foot-rule
and try to measure the diameter of a begonia or mignonette seed; but you
will probably save time by simply trying to cover small seeds just as
lightly as possible. I mark off my seed rows with the point of a lead
pencil--which I have handy back of my ear for writing the tags--sow the
seed thinly, and as evenly as possible by shaking it gently out of a
corner of the seed envelope, which is tapped lightly with the lead
pencil, and then press each row down with the edge of a board about as
thick as a shingle. Over the whole scatter cocoanut fiber (which may be
bought of most seedmen) or light prepared soil, as thinly as
possible--just cover the seeds from sight--and press the surface flat
with a small piece of board. A very light moistening, with a plant
sprinkler, completes the operation.

The temperature required in which to start the seeds of any plant will
be about the same as that which the same plant requires when grown.
Germination will be stronger and quicker, however, if ten to fifteen
degrees more, especially at night, can be supplied. If this can be given
as what the florists term "bottom heat," that is, applied under the seed
box, so much the better.

Until germination actually takes place, there is little danger of
getting the soil too warm, as it heats through from the bottom very
slowly. The box may be placed on the steam radiator, on a stand over the
floor radiator, or on a couple of bricks on the back of the kitchen
range; or the box may be supported over a lamp or small kerosene stove,
care being taken to have a piece of metal between the wood and the
direct heat of the flame. For the first few days it may be kept in the
shade, but as soon as the seeds push through they must be given all the
light possible.

If the seed flats or pans are prepared by the newer method suggested
above, they will probably not need any further watering, or not more
than one, until the seeds are up. The necessity of further watering, in
any case, will be shown by the soil's drying out on the surface. In the
case of small seeds, such as most flower seeds are, the moisture in the
soil will be retained much longer by keeping the box covered with a pane
of glass, slightly raised at one side. If the box is to be kept in
bright sunlight, shade the glass with a piece of paper, until the
seedlings are up, which will be in a day or so with some sorts, and
weeks with others.

From the time the little plants come up, until they are ready to prick
off in other flats or into pots, the boxes should never be allowed to
dry out. If they are being grown in winter or early spring, while the
days are still short and the sun low, they will require very little
water, and it should be applied only on bright mornings. In autumn and
late spring, especially the latter, they will require more, and if the
boxes dry out quickly, you should apply it toward evening. In either
case, do not water until the soil is beginning to dry on the surface,
and then water thoroughly, or until the soil will not readily absorb
more. If you will take the pains, and have the facilities for doing it,
by far the best way to keep the seed boxes supplied with moisture is to
place them, when dry, in an inch or so of water (as described for seed
sowing) and let them soak up what they need, or until the surface of the
soil becomes moist. This does the job more evenly and thoroughly than it
can be done from the surface, and is also a safeguard against damping
off, that dreaded disease of seedlings which is likely to carry away
your whole sowing in one day--a decaying of the stem just at or below
the soil.

From the time the seedlings come up they should be given abundance of
light, and all the air possible while maintaining the required
temperature. It will be possible, except on very cold dark days, to give
them fresh air. Never, however, let a draft of air more than a few
degrees colder than the room in which they are blow directly upon them.
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STARTING PLANTS FROM SEED

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One of the ways of getting a supply of plants for the house is to start
them from seed. With a number of varieties, better specimens may be
obtained by this method than by any other. Most of the annuals, and many
of the biennials and perennials, are best reproduced in this way.

Simple as the art of starting plants from seed may seem, there are a
number of things which must be thought of, and done correctly. We must
give them a proper situation, soil, temperature, covering and amount of
moisture, and when once above ground they need careful attention until
lifted and started on their way as individual plants.

The number of plants of one sort which will be required for the house is
naturally not large, and for that reason beginners often try starting
their seeds in pots. But a pot is not a good thing to try to start
plants in: the amount of earth is too small and dries out quickly. Seed
pans are better, but even they must be watched very carefully. A wooden
box, or flat, is better still. Cigar boxes are often used with good
results; but a more satisfactory way is to make a few regular flats
from a soap or cracker box bought at the grocer's. Saw it lengthwise
into sections two inches deep, being careful to first draw out nails and
wire staples in the way, and bottom these with material of the same
sort. Either leave the bottom boards half an inch apart, or bore seven
or eight half-inch holes in the bottom of each, to provide thorough
drainage. If they are to be used in the house, a coat or two of paint
will make them very presentable. Of course one such box will accommodate
a great many seeds--enough to start two hundred to a thousand little
plants--but you can sow them in rows, as described later, and thus put
from three to a dozen sorts in each box.

Where most beginners fail in attempting to start seeds is in not taking
the trouble to prepare a proper soil. They are willing to take any
amount of trouble with watering and heat and all that, but they will not
fix a suitable soil. The soil for the seed box need not be rich, in fact
it is better not to have manure in it; but very porous and very light it
must be, especially for such small seeds as most flowers have. Such a
soil may be mixed up from rotted sod (or garden loam), leaf-mould and
sharp sand, used in equal proportions. If the loam used is clayey, it
may take even a larger proportion of sand. The resulting mixture should
be extremely fine and crumbling, and feel almost "light as a feather"
in the hand. If the sod and mould have not already been screened, rub
the compost through a sieve of not more than quarter-inch mesh--such as
a coal-ash sifter. This screening will help also to incorporate the
several ingredients evenly and thoroughly.

While we provided holes in the seed box for drainage, it is best to take
even further precautions in this matter by covering the bottom of the
box with nearly an inch of coarse material, such as the roots and half
decayed leaves, screened out of the sods and leaf-mould. On the top of
this put the prepared soil, filling the box to within about a quarter of
an inch of the top, and packing down well into the corners and along
sides and ends. The box should not be filled level full, because in
subsequent waterings there would be no space to hold the water which
would run off over the sides instead of soaking down into the soil.

The usual way is to fill the boxes and sow the seed, and then water the
box on the surface, but I mention here a method which I have used in my
own work for two years. When filling the box, set it in some place where
it may be watered freely, such as on the cellar floor, if too cold to
work outdoors. After putting in the first layer of coarse material, give
it a thorough soaking and then put in about two-thirds of the rest of
the soil required and give that a thorough watering also. The balance
of the soil is then put in and made level, the seeds sown, and no
further watering given, or just enough to moisten the surface and hold
it in place, if dry. The same result can be obtained by filling and
sowing the box in the usual way, and then placing it in some place--such
as the kitchen sink--in about an inch of water, and leaving it until
moisture, not water, shows upon the surface. Either of these ways is
much surer than the old method of trying to soak the soil through from
the surface after planting, in which case it is next to impossible to
wet the soil clear through without washing out some of the small seeds.

After filling the box as directed, make the soil perfectly smooth and
level with a small flat piece of board, or a brick. Do not pack it down
hard,--just make it firm. Then mark off straight narrow lines, one to
two inches apart, according to the size of the seed to be sown.

FERTILIZERS - Garden

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There are many brands of mixed fertilizers prepared specially for use in
the greenhouse or on plants in pots. There is a temptation to use these
on account of their convenient compact form, and because they are more
agreeable to handle. As a general rule, however, much better results
will be obtained by relying on rotted manure.

If you want to use fertilizers at all--and for certain purposes they
will be very valuable--I would advise restricting the list to the
following pure materials which are not mixed, and which are always
uniform; nitrate of soda, cottonseed meal, pure fine ground bone, and
wood ashes. (Several of the other chemicals are good, but not so
commonly used.)

Ground bone is the most valuable of these. It should be what is known as
"fine ground," or bone dust. It induces a strong but firm growth, and
can be used safely in the potting soil, supplementing the manure as a
source of plant food. From two to three quarts to a bushel of soil is
the right amount to use. It should be thoroughly mixed through the
soil. It may also be frequently used to advantage as a top dressing on
plants that have exhausted the food in their pots, or while developing
buds or blooming. Work two or three spoonfuls into the top of the soil.

Nitrate of soda is the next in importance. It is very strong and must be
carefully used, the safest way being to use it as a liquid manure, one
or two teaspoonsful dissolved in three gallons of water. If first
dissolved in a pint of hot water, and then added to the other, it will
be more quickly done. Use a pint or so of this solution in watering. The
results will often be wonderful.

Cottonseed meal may be safely mixed with the soil, like ground bone, but
requires some time in which to rot, before the plant can make use of it.

Wood ashes are also safe, and good to add to the potting soil. They help
to make a firm, hard growth, as a result of the potash they furnish.
Where plants seem to be making a too rapid, watery growth, wood ashes
may be applied to the surface and worked in.

With a soil prepared as directed in the first part of this chapter,
there will be very little need for using any other of the fertilizers,
until plants have been shifted into their last pots and have filled them
with roots. When this stage is reached the use of liquid manures as
described later will frequently be beneficial. If, however, a plant for
any reason seems backward, or slower in growth than it should be, an
application or two of nitrate of soda will often produce results almost
marvelous. Be sure, however, that your troubles are not due to some
mistake in temperature, ventilation or watering, before you ascribe them
to improper or exhausted soil.

Now, having had the patience to find out something about the conditions
under which plants ought to succeed, let us proceed to the more
interesting work of actually making them grow.

MANURES - Garden

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Manure of some sort is essential to the growing of plants in pots or
boxes, both because of the plant-food it adds to the soil, and because
it improves its mechanical condition and sponginess or water-holding
quality. Thoroughly rotted horse manure or horse and cow manure mixed is
by far the best. Cow manure alone, or pig manure, is lumpy and cold,
and hen, sheep, pigeon or other special manures are not safe in the
hands of the beginner, as they are one-sided, being especially rich in
nitrogen and likely either to burn the plants or to cause too soft and
watery growth.

This brings us to the point where it is necessary to say a few words
about the theory of manures, for they are not all alike and what would
be wise to give a plant under some circumstances under others would be
quite wrong, just as you would not think of feeding beefsteak to a baby
just recovering from the colic, while it might be a very good thing for
a hungry man who was going to saw up your wood-pile.

Plants of all sorts--in pots, in the garden or in a ten-acre
lot--require three kinds of food elements: nitrogen, phosphoric acid and
potash. These elements may be fed to the plants in various forms; for
instance, the nitrogen in hen manure, or in cottonseed meal, or in salts
from the nitrate fields of Chile, known as nitrate of soda; the
phosphoric acid from bone, or from acid phosphate (a ground rock treated
with acid); the potash from wood ashes or from German potash salts
(muriate or sulphate of potash). Plants, to do their best, require that
all three elements shall be present in sufficient amounts to supply
their wants.

It is not necessary, however, to go very deeply into the science of
plant foods in order to grow plants successfully. Fortunately, manure
rotted as described above, furnishes all three elements in about the
right proportions. Cow, sheep, hen and pigeon manure are best used as
described later, under "Liquid Manuring."

SOILS, MANURES AND FERTILIZERS

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The soil must furnish the whole foundation of plant life. For centuries
those who have grown things have realized the vital importance of having
the soil rich or well supplied with plant food; and if this is important
in growing plants in the field or flower garden, where each vegetable or
flower has from one to several cubic feet of earth in which to grow, how
imperative it is to have rich soil in a pot or plant box where each
plant may have but a few cubic inches!

But the trouble is not so much in knowing that plants should be given
rich soil, as to know how to furnish it. I well remember my first
attempt at making soil rich and thinking how I would surprise my
grandmother, who worked about her plants in pots every day of her life,
and still did not have them as big as they grew in the flower garden. I
had seen the hired man put fertilizer on the garden. That was the
secret! So I got a wooden box about two-thirds full of mellow garden
earth, and filled most of the remaining space with fertilizer, well
mixed into the soil, as I had seen him fix it. I remember that my
anxiety was not that I get too much fertilizer in the soil, but that I
would take so much out of the bag that it would be missed. Great indeed
was my chagrin and disappointment, twelve hours after carefully setting
out and watering my would-be prize plants, to notice that they had
perceptibly turned yellow and wilted. And I certainly had made the soil
rich.

So the problem is by no means as simple as might at first be supposed.
Not only must sufficient plant food be added to the soil but it must be
in certain forms, and neither too much nor too little may be given if
the best results are to be attained.

Now it is a fact established beyond all dispute that not only food, but
air and water, as well, must be supplied to the roots of growing plants;
and this being the case, the _mechanical_ condition of the soil in which
the plant is to grow has a great deal to do with its success or failure.
It must be what is termed a porous and friable soil--that is, one so
light and open that water will drain through it without making it a
compact, muddy mass. One of the things I noticed about my special
fertilizer soil, mentioned above, was that it settled, after being
watered, into a solid mass from which water would not drain and into
which air could not penetrate.

It is next to impossible to find a soil just right for house plants, so,
as a general thing the only way to get a good soil is to mix it
yourself. For this purpose several ingredients are used. If you live in
a village or suburb, where the following may be procured, your problem
is not a difficult one. Take about equal parts of rotted sod, rotted
horse manure and leaf-mould from the woods and mix thoroughly and
together, adding from one-sixth to one-third, in bulk, of coarse sand.
If a considerable quantity of soil will be required during the year, it
will be well to have some place, such as a bin or large barrel, in which
to keep a supply of each ingredient. The sod should be cut three or four
inches thick, and stacked in layers with the grassy sides together,
giving an occasional soaking, if the weather is dry, to hasten rotting.
The manure should be decomposed under cover, and turned frequently at
first to prevent burning out; or sod and manure can be rotted together,
stacking them in alternate layers and forking over two or three times
after rotting has begun. The manure furnishes plant food to the compost,
the rotted sod "body," the leaf-mould water-absorbing qualities, and the
sand, drainage qualities.

If the soil is wanted at once, and no rotted sod is to be had, use good
garden loam, preferably from some spot which was under clover-sod the
year before. If it is difficult to obtain well-rotted manure, street
sweepings may be used as a substitute, and old chip-dirt from under the
wood pile, or the bottom of the woodshed if it has a dirt floor, will do
in place of leaf-mould. Peat, or thoroughly dried and sweetened muck
are also good substitutes for leaf-mould. Finely screened coal ashes may
take the place of sand.

If you live in the city, where it is difficult to obtain and to handle
the several materials mentioned, the best way is to get your soil ready
mixed at the florists, as a bushel will fill numerous pots. If you
prefer to mix it yourself, or to add any of the ingredients to the soil
you may have, most florists can supply you with light soil, sand, peat
or leaf-mould and rotted manure; and sphagnum moss, pots, saucers and
other things required for your outfit. If a large supply is wanted, it
would probably be cheaper to go to some establishment on the outskirts
of the city where things are actually grown, than to depend upon the
retail florist nearer at hand.

Potting soil when ready to use should be moist enough to be pressed into
a ball by the hand, but never so moist as not to crumble to pieces again
readily beneath the finger.

TEMPERATURE - Garden

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Next in importance to light, is the matter of temperature. The ordinary
house plants, to be kept in health, require a temperature of sixty-five
to seventy-five degrees during the day and fifty to fifty-five degrees
at night. Frequently it will not be possible to keep the room from going
lower at night, but it should be kept as near that as possible;
forty-five degrees occasionally will not do injury, and even several
degrees lower will not prove fatal, but if frequently reached the plants
will be checked and seem to stand still. Plants in the dormant, or
semi-dormant condition are not so easily injured by low temperature as
those in full growth; also plants which are quite dry will stand much
more cold than those in moist soil.

The proper condition of temperature is the most difficult thing to
regulate and maintain in growing plants in the house. There is, however,
at least one room in almost every house where the night temperature does
not often go below forty-five or fifty degrees, and if necessary all
plants may be collected into one room during very cold weather. Another
precaution which will often save them is to move them away from the
windows; put sheets of newspaper inside the panes, not, however,
touching the glass, as a "dead air space" must be left between. Where
there is danger of freezing, a kerosene lamp or stove left burning in
the room overnight will save them. Never, when the temperature outside
is below freezing, should plants be left where leaves or blossoms may
touch the glass.

As with the problem of light, so with that of temperature--the specially
designed place for plants, no matter how small or simple a little nook
it may be, offers greater facility for furnishing the proper conditions.
But it is, of course, not imperative, and as I have said, there is
probably not one home in twenty where a number of sorts of plants cannot
be safely carried through the winter.

MOISTURE

It would seem, at first thought, that the proper condition of moisture
could be furnished as easily in the house as anywhere. And so it can be
as far as applying water to the soil is concerned; but the air in most
dwellings in winter is terribly deficient in moisture. The fact that a
room is so dry that plants cannot live in it should sound a warning to
us who practically live there for days at a time, but it does not, and
we continue to contract all sorts of nose and throat troubles, to say
nothing of more serious diseases. No room too dry for plants to live in
is fit for people to live in. Hot-air and steam heating systems
especially, produce an over-dry condition of the atmosphere. This can
be overcome to a great or complete extent by thorough ventilation and by
keeping water constantly where it can evaporate; over radiators, etc.
This should be done for the sake of your own health, if not for that of
the plant.

Further information as to watering and ventilation will be found in
Chapter VII (page 45), but before we get anxious about just how to take
care of plants we must know how to get them, and before getting them we
must know what to give them to grow in--the plant's foundation. So for a
little we must be content with those prosaic but altogether essential
matters of soil, manures and fertilizers, which in the next chapter I
shall try to make clear in as brief manner as possible.

LIGHT - Garden

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In the first place, almost all plants, whether they flower or not, must
have an abundance of light, and many require sunshine, especially during
the dull days of winter. Plants without sufficient light never make a
normal, healthy growth; the stems are long, lanky and weak, the foliage
has a semi-transparent, washed-out look, and the whole plant falls an
easy victim to disease or insect enemies. Even plants grown in the full
light of a window, as everyone with any experience in managing them
knows from observation, will draw toward the glass and become one-sided
with the leaves all facing one way. Therefore even with the best of
conditions, it is necessary to turn them half about every few days,
preferably every time they are watered, in order that they may maintain
an even, shapely growth.

As a rule the flowering plants, such as geraniums and heliotropes,
require more light and sunshine than those grown for foliage, such as
palms, ferns and the decorative leaved begonias. It is almost
impossible, during the winter months, to give any of them too much
sunlight and where there is any danger of this, as sometimes happens in
early fall or late spring, a curtain of the thinnest material will give
them ample protection, the necessity being not to exclude the light, but
simply to break the direct action of the sun's rays through glass.

A great variety of plants may be grown in the ordinary window garden,
for which the sunniest and broadest window available should be selected.
There are two methods of handling the plants: they may be kept as
individual specimens in pots and "dishes" or "pans" (which are nothing
more or less than shallow flower pots), or they may be grown together in
a plant box, made for the purpose and usually more or less decorative in
itself, that will harmonize with and set off the beauty of the plants.

The latter method, that of growing in boxes, offers two distinct
advantages, especially where there is likely to be encountered too high
a temperature and consequent dryness in the air. The plants are more
easily cared for than they are in pots, which rapidly dry out and need
frequent changing; and effects in grouping and harmonious decoration may
be had which are not readily secured with plants in pots. On the other
hand, it is not possible to give such careful attention to individual
plants which may require it as when they are grown in pots; nor can
there be so much re-arrangement and change when these are required--and
what good housekeeper is not a natural born scene shifter, every once in
so often rolling the piano around to the other side of the room, and
moving the bookcase or changing the big Boston fern over to the other
window, so it can be seen from the dining-room?

If the plants are to be kept in pots--and on the whole this will
generally be the more satisfactory method--several shelves of light,
smooth wood of a convenient width (six to twelve inches) should be
firmly placed, by means of the common iron brackets, in each window to
be used. It will help, both in keeping the pots in place and in
preventing muddy water from dripping down to the floor or table below,
if a thin, narrow strip of wood is nailed to each edge of these shelves,
extending an inch or two above them. A couple of coats of outside paint
will also add to the looks and to the life of these shelves and further
tend to prevent any annoying drip from draining pots. Such a shelf will
be still further improved by being covered an inch or two deep with
coarse gravel or fine pebbles.

Daisies, Daisy - FLOWERING PLANTS,

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Daisies , Double English Daisies--The bright little short-stemmed
daisies, seen so frequently in spring (_Bellis perennis_) are not often
used as a house plant, but make a very agreeable surprise. Start from
seed in August; transplant to boxes of suitable size, and on the
approach of freezing weather cover gradually with leaves and rough
manure or litter in a sheltered, well drained place. Bring them in as
wanted from January on.

Daisy , Paris or Marguerite--Beautiful daisy-like flowers, very freely
borne, in two colors, pure white and delicate yellow. Root cuttings in
spring and keep pinched back for winter flowering. Grow in rather heavy
rich soil, with plenty of water.

FLOWERING PLANTS - Carnation

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Carnation --This beautiful flower is not well adapted for house
culture. It may, however, be grown in five-or-six-inch pots, using a
heavy soil, keeping in a cool temperature, about forty-five degrees at
night, watering regularly and spraying daily with as much force as
possible. For further information about growing the plants, see Part
II., page 181.

Carnation Marguerite --These are much better suited for the trials of
house culture. While not as large, they are in other respects fully as
beautiful. Take up the best sorts from the flower garden, cut back
severely and keep shaded until new growth starts.

Chrysanthemum --This is another beautiful flower not well suited to
house culture. However, if you have room,--it will take an eight-,
nine-or even ten-inch pot for each plant--and want to go to the trouble,
you can have it indoors. For cultural directions see Part II, page 185.

OTHER FLOWERING PLANTS

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Ageratum --Valuable for its bright blue flowers and dwarf growth, going
in well with other plants. There is also a white variety. Make cuttings
in August, or cut back and pot up old plants.

Alyssum --Good with other plants to produce a light bouquet-like
effect. White. Fall and dwarf varieties. Seed or cuttings.

Balsam --Beautiful colors. Take up and pot after blooming in garden.
Only double sorts worth while.

Candytuft --Colors. Good for cut flowers. Seed or cuttings.

Cannas --New dwarf hybrids, named varieties have beautiful flowers.
Give rich soil, lots of sun and water. Dry off after flowering.

Snapdragon - FLOWERING PLANTS

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I feel somewhat doubtful about giving this comparatively little known
flower a place among the especially recommended plants. Not on the basis
of my own experience with it, but because in the several books in my
possession which deal with house plants, I do not find it mentioned.
There certainly can be no question that the long spikes of flowers in
pure white, light and dark reds, deep wines and clear yellows, with
combinations of two or more of these in many cases, are among our most
beautiful flowers. They stay in blossom a long time, each stalk opening
out slowly from the bottom to the top of the spike, like a gladiolus.
They seem, in my own experience at least, to stand almost any amount of
abuse; this spring several old plants that I had abandoned to their fate
insisted on coming to life again and trying to vie with their younger
progeny in flowering.

Snapdragons are easily raised from seed, or propagated by cuttings. For
winter blooming sow the former in March or April, grow on in a cool
place and keep pinched back to make bushy plants. If you have limited
room, let one stalk blossom on each plant, so that you can avoid
selecting duplicates. Cuttings may be taken at any time when the weather
is not too hot. Take the tops of flowering shoots which have not yet
matured so far as to become hollow.

The varieties have been greatly improved, that now sold as
Giant-flowered Hybrids being the best. There is also a dwarf type and of
still later introduction a double white. This will undoubtedly break
into the other colors and give us a valuable new race.

With the directions given for the foregoing, and also on pages 6 to 50,
the following brief instructions should be necessary to enable success
with the other flowering plants which are worth trying in the house for
winter blooming.

Primroses - flowers

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Of the deservedly popular primrose there are two types, the Chinese
primrose (_Primula Sinensis_) and _Primula obconica_. Both are
favorites, because of their simple beauty and the remarkable freedom and
constancy with which they bloom. Another advantage is that they do not
require direct sunlight. Primroses need no particular care. The soil may
have a little extra leaf-mould and should slope toward the edges of the
pot, to prevent the possibility of any water collecting at the crown of
the plant, which must be left well above the soil when potting.

The easiest way to get plants is to buy small ones from the florist
every spring. They may be raised from seed successfully, however, if one
will take care to give them a shaded, cool location during the hot
summer months, such as a coldframe covered with protecting cloth, or any
light material that will freely admit air. From seed sown in February
or March they should be ready to bloom by the following Christmas. It
does not pay to keep the plants over for a second season.

There are numerous varieties. One very small sort, _P.
Forbesi_--sometimes called Baby Primrose--is exceedingly floriferous.
Several plants of this sort put together in a large pan make a most
beautiful sight, and will do well as a decoration for a center table.

Until recently _P. obconica_ was inferior in size of flower to the
Chinese primrose, but the newer strains, under the name _P. grandiflora
fimbriata_, or Giant Fringed, are quite wonderful. Some of the
individual flowers are over an inch and a quarter across, and range from
pure white to deep rose. If you cannot obtain other plants of this type
from your florist they will well repay the trouble of starting from
seed.

Petunia - FLOWERING PLANTS

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The petunia is one of the most easily grown and generous bloomers of all
house plants. It is, however, a little coarse and some people object to
its heavy odor. The flowers are both single and double, each having its
advocates. Both have been vastly improved within the last few years.
Certain it is that some of the new ruffled giant singles are remarkably
beautiful, even as individual flowers; and the new fringed doubles,
which come in agreeable shades of pink, variegated to pure white
(instead of that harsh magenta which characterized the older style)
produce beautiful mass effects with their quantities of bloom.

They are grown either from seed or cuttings, the latter frequently
blooming in the cutting box, if allowed to. In raising seedlings, be
sure to save all the slowest growing and delicate looking plants, as
they are fairly sure to give some of the best flowers, the worthless
singles growing strong and rank from the start. Plants growing outdoors
during the summer may be cut back, potted up and started into new
growth. The singles bloom more freely than the doubles, especially
indoors. After blooming, cut the plants back to within a few inches of
the root, repot or give liquid manure and a new growth will be sent up,
and soon be in blossom again.

Heliotrope - FLOWERING PLANTS

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The heliotrope has long been the queen of all flowers grown for
fragrance. It is grown readily from either seeds or cuttings; the latter
generally rooted in the spring. For blooming in winter, start young
plants in February, or cut back old ones after flowering, and keep
growing but pinched back and disbudded, in partial shade during the
summer.

There are several varieties, from dark purple to very light and white.
Lemoine's hybrids have the largest flowers, but are not so fragrant as
some of the smaller sorts.

By pinching off the side shoots and training to a single main stalk, the
plants may be grown as formal standards, with the flowering branches
several feet from the pot, like the head of a tree. For certain uses
they are appropriate, but I think not nearly as beautiful as when well
trimmed to shape and grown in the ordinary way.

The heliotrope objects to any sudden change, whether of temperature,
watering or soil, and will readily turn brown and drop all its leaves.
Giving it proper care and cutting back, however, will quickly bring it
into good humor again.

The Pelargoniums (Pansy Geraniums)

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This section contains the most
wonderful flowers of all the geraniums. Imagine, if you can, a rather
graceful shrub with attractive foliage, eighteen inches or so high and
broad, covered with loose clusters of pansies in the most brilliant and
harmonious contrasts of color, and the most delicate blendings of
rare shades, such as snow white and lilac. Unfortunately, these
marvelous blossoms remain but a few weeks at most, and then there is a
year's care and waiting. As with the fantastic cacti, all their
blossoming energy and beauty seems to be concentrated into one brief but
glorious effort. It certainly is to be hoped that the new strain,
mentioned on a former page, will successfully be developed. Pelargoniums
are propagated by cuttings, and cared for as the ordinary geraniums,
except that they should be kept very cold and dry during their winter
resting spell. Cut back after blooming.

Sweet Scented Geranium

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This type has two valuable uses; their
delicious fragrance and also the beauty and long keeping quality of the
leaves when used in bouquets or to furnish green with geranium blossoms.
Rose and Lemon (or Skeleton) are the two old favorites of this type. The
Mint geranium, with a broad, large leaf of a beautiful soft green, and
thick velvety texture, should be better known. All three must be kept
well cut back, as they like to grow long and scraggly.

The ivy-leafed geraniums have not yet come into their own. To me they
are the most beautiful of all. The leaves are like ivy leaves, only
thicker and more glossy. The flowers, which are freely borne, contain
some of the most beautiful and delicate shades and markings of any
flowers, and the vines are exceedingly graceful in habit when given a
place where they can spread out or hang down. Like the common or Zonal
geranium, the ivy-leafed section has within the last few years been
greatly improved. There is space here to mention but one variety
(L'Elegantea), whose variegated white and green foliage, in addition to
its lovely flowers, gives it a wonderful charm.

Foliage Geraniums

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The foremost of these is Mme. Salleroi (Silver-leaf
geranium). It is unequaled as a border and for mingling with other
plants in the edge of boxes and vases. Well grown specimens make
beautiful single pot plants. Mrs. Pollock and Mountain of Snow are other
good varieties.

Geranium Varieties

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S. A. Nutt leads them all. It is the richest, darkest crimson--usually
ordered as "the darkest red." It is a great bloomer, but one word of
caution where you grow your own plants:--You must keep it cut back and
make it branch, otherwise it will surely grow up tall and spindling. E.
H. Trego is the most brilliant of the reds that I have grown. Marquis de
Castellane is the richest of the reds--a dull, even, glowing color with
what artists term "warmth" and "depth." The trusses are immense and the
stems long, stiff and erect. It is the best geranium for massing in
bouquets that I know.

Beauté Potevine is the richest, most glorious of the salmon
pinks--perhaps the most popular of all the geraniums as a pot plant for
the house. It is a sturdy grower and a wonderful bloomer.

Dorothy Perkins is a strong growing bright pink, with an almost white
center. Very attractive.

Roseleur is one of the most lovely delicate pinks. Mme. Récamier,
perhaps the best of the double whites, making a very compact, sturdy
plant.

Silver-leafed Nutt, very recently introduced, is, I believe, destined to
be one of the most popular of all geraniums. It has the rich flowers of
S. A. Nutt and leaves of a beautiful dull, light green, bordered with
silver white. I am chary of novelties, and got my first plants last
spring with the expectation of being disappointed. So far it has proved
a great acquisition.

New-life is another new sort which has won great popularity, the center
of the flowers being white in contrast to the red of the outer petals.
This is one of a new type of geranium having two more or less distinct
colors in each flower. Another new type is the "Cactus" section, with
petals narrower and recurved. In fact, the geranium seems to have by no
means reached its full development.

The geranium - flowering plant

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The geranium has been for years, and is likely to remain, the most
popular flowering plant of all, whether for use in summer flower beds or
for the winter window garden. To some people this wide popularity
renders it less desirable, but with those who grow plants for their
intrinsic beauty and not because they may or may not be in vogue the
geranium with its healthy vitality, its attractive foliage and its
simply marvelous range of color and delicate shadings will always be a
favorite. I even venture to predict more; to prophesy that it is going
to be used, as one seldom sees it now, as a cut flower for decorative
purposes. I have grown some of the newer varieties with stems from
twelve to eighteen inches long, supporting enormous trusses of dull red
or the most delicate pink and keeping fresh in vases for days at a time.
I find that very few people, even old flower lovers, have any conception
of the improvement and variety which the last few years have brought,
especially in the wonderful new creations coming from the hands of the
French hybridizers. The latest news is that a German plant-breeder has
produced the first of a new race of Pelargoniums (Pansy or Lady
Washington geraniums) that continues to bloom as long as any of our
ordinary bedding sorts. It has not yet been offered in this country, but
doubtless soon will be, and it will be an acquisition indeed.

The culture of the geranium is simple. For its use as a house plant
there are just two things to keep in mind; first give it a soil which is
a little on the heavy side; that is, use three parts of good heavy loam,
one of manure and one of sand; secondly do not over-water. Keep it on
the "dry side"--(see page 45).

To have geraniums blooming in the house _all_ winter prepare plants in
two ways, as follows: First, in May or June pot up a number of old
plants. Cut back quite severely, leaving a skeleton work of old wood,
well branched, from which the new flowering wood will grow. Keep plunged
and turned during the summer and take off every bud until three or four
weeks before you are ready to take the plants inside. Secondly, in March
or April, start some new plants from cuttings and grow these, with
frequent shifts, until they fill six-or seven-inch pots, but keep them
pinched back to induce a branching growth, and disbudded, until about
the end of December. These will come into bloom after the old plants.

The best time for propagating the general supply of geraniums is from
September 15th to the end of October. Cuttings should be taken from
wood that is as firm and ripe as possible, while still yielding to the
"snapping test" (see page 30). In all stages of growth the geranium is
remarkably free from any insect or disease.

The varieties of geraniums now run into the hundreds--a wonderful
collection. I shall name but a few, all of which I know from my own
experience in selling several thousand every spring, are sure to be
well-liked and good bloomers.

Fuchsia - Flowers

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There is perhaps no plant which more perfectly combines gracefulness and
beauty of color than a well grown fuchsia in full bloom. Well-grown in
this case does not simply mean that it should have been given the proper
care as regards food and temperature. The fuchsia is naturally a
somewhat trailing and very brittle-wooded plant. It needs support and
the problem is to give it this support and at the same time not destroy
its natural gracefulness of form, as is usually done when it is tied up
stiffly to a wooden stake. If tied carefully to an inconspicuous green
stake by means of green twine this may be accomplished. A better way
will be to use one of the stakes described on page 144.

Fuchsias are shade plants. The full direct sunlight is likely to prove
fatal to their existence. In winter they may be kept in an east or north
window, or on the inside of other plants in a south window. If they are
wanted to bloom early in the fall keep well pinched back and disbudded
during the summer which is the natural blooming season for all the best
varieties. For summer blooming, dry off gradually in the fall and keep
during the winter--until February or March--in a frost-proof room or
cellar. After they have been brought into the light, repot and water and
new growth will start. Prune back the old branches severely, as the next
crop of flowers will be borne on the new wood. This is also a good time
to start cuttings for a new supply of plants.

Old plants--two or three years--will, however, give a far greater
abundance of flowers.

The most serious enemy of the fuchsia indoors is the pernicious red
spider. For details of the proper reception to be given him see page
134.

The varieties of the fuchsia, in both single and double flowers, are
many. Among popular sorts are Elm City, Black Prince, speciosa,
Phenomenal. Florists' catalogues list many others, new and for the most
part well worth trying.

Begonias

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I think if I were restricted to the use of one class of plants for
beautifying my home in winter I should without hesitation choose the
begonias. No other plants so combine decorative effect, beauty of form
and flower, continuity of bloom and general ease of culture.

There are three types: the flowering fibrous-rooted begonias, the
decorative leaved begonias and the tuberous-rooted, with their abundant
and gorgeous flowers and beautiful foliage. (These latter are described
more fully in Chapter XV on Bulbs.)

Begonias are rather difficult to raise from seed and the best way to get
them is to go to some good florist and select a few specimens; after
that you can easily keep supplied by cuttings (see page 29). The large
fancy-leaved begonias (Rex begonias) are increased by "leaf-cuttings."
Take an old leaf and cut it into triangular pieces, about three inches
each way and with a part of one of the thick main ribs at one corner of
each piece; this is the corner to put into the sand. These--seven or
eight of which can be made from one leaf--should be inserted about an
inch into the sand of the cutting box or saucer, and treated as ordinary
cuttings. The new growth will come up from the rib. (Illustration facing
page 40). Some of the foliage begonias have long, thick stems, or
"rhizomes" growing just above the soil; from these the leaves grow.
Propagate by cutting the rhizome into pieces about two inches long and
covering in the rooting medium.

The most satisfactory way to select your begonias is to see them
actually growing at the florist's. In case selection cannot be made,
thus, however, the following brief descriptions may be helpful. The
begonia with the most showy flowers is the "coral" begonia--(in
catalogues B. _maculata_, var. Corallina). The flowers, which grow in
large clusters, reach half an inch across.

Begonias _rubra_, Alba, Vernon, _nitida_ and _N. alba_, Luminosa,
Sandersoni and _semperflorens_, _gigantea rosea_, are all good sorts.

For foliage, _Begonia metallica_, is the most popular. The flowers while
not conspicuous are very pretty. _B. Thurstoni_, _albo-picta_, and
_argenteoguttata_ are also very attractive, the two latter having small
silvery spots upon the leaves.

Of the large leaved Rex begonias new varieties are frequently
introduced. They are seldom improvements over the old favorites,
Philadelphus, Silver Queen, Fire King, Mrs. Rivers and others.

One of the most glorious of all flower sights is a plant of begonia
Gloire de Lorraine in full bloom. It makes a graceful hanging mass of
the most beautiful pink flowers. I cannot, however, conscientiously
recommend it as a house plant. The best way is to get a plant, say in
October, which is just about to bloom. Even if you lose it after it is
through blooming--they continue in flower for several months--it will
have been well worth the expense. But it is not necessary to lose it.
When through flowering give it less water and keep in a cool light
place. During summer keep it as cool as possible, on the veranda, or
plunged in the shade of a tree. About September rapid growth will be
made and it may gradually be given full sunlight.

Gloire Cincinnati is a splendid begonia of very recent introduction and
it is claimed to be much hardier than Gloire de Lorraine, but whether it
will prove satisfactory as a house plant I cannot say. There are many
other beautiful kinds of begonias besides the few described above. If
you have room, by all means try some of them.

As to soil, add about one-third of thoroughly pulverized leaf-mould to
the potting soil described on page 15, if you would give them the best
conditions. In watering keep them if anything a little on the "dry
side." They like plenty of light but will do best if kept out of the
direct rays of the sun.

FLOWERING PLANTS

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The very important question--"What plants shall be grown in the
house?"--must be left for the individual to answer. In selecting a few
to describe somewhat in detail in the first part of this chapter, I do
not mean to imply that the others are not as beautiful, or may not, with
proper care, be successfully grown in the house. However, most of those
described are the more popular--very possibly because as a rule greater
success is attained with them.

The same is true of the treatment of the other groups--shrubs, foliage
plants, palms, ferns, vines, cacti and bulbs, which are classed not upon
a strict botanical basis but with reference to their general habits and
requirements, my sole object in this book being to make the proper
cultural directions as definite and clear as possible.

MANAGEMENT OF HOUSE PLANTS

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There are some general rules that will apply to taking care of all
plants in the house; then there are several groups, the different sorts
in which are handled more or less alike; and lastly there are the
individual requirements of the plants in the several groups to be
considered.

Information about all these varieties, as given in the usual way,
results in a more or less confusing mass of detail. It is for the
purpose of getting this information into as plain a form as possible
that the instructions in the first chapters of this book have been given
in such detail; and those instructions should be used in conjunction
with the following pages. The beginner cannot expect to fully comprehend
the suggestions given until the plain everyday operations of plant
growing have become familiar.

Much of what has been said in the previous pages has borne upon the
several points of managing plants successfully in the house. It will be
of use, however, to have those various suggestions brought together in
condensed form.

In the first place it must be remembered that at best it is hard to get
conditions in the living-room that will be suitable for the healthy
growth of plants. Every effort should be made to prepare a place for
them in which such conditions may be made as nearly ideal as possible:
plenty of light, evenly regulated temperature; moisture in the air.

For most house plants the temperature should be 50 to 55 at night and 65
to 75 during the day. An occasional night temperature of 45 or even 40
will not do great harm but if reached frequently will check the growth
of the plants.

Air should be given every day when the temperature of the room will not
be too greatly lowered thereby. Avoid direct drafts, as sudden chills
are apt to produce bad results. Even on very cold days, fresh air may be
let in indirectly, through a window open in an adjoining room or through
a hall. It is better, when possible, to give a little ventilation during
an hour or two, than to rush too sudden a lowering of the temperature by
trying to do it all in fifteen minutes.

The amount of water which should be given will depend both upon the
plant and upon the season. During the dull days of winter and during the
"resting season" of all plants, very little water will be required. It
should be given on bright mornings. During early fall and late spring,
when the pots or boxes dry out very rapidly, water in the evening. In
either case, however, withhold water until the soil is beginning to get
on the "dry side" and then water thoroughly. Water should be given until
it runs down through into the saucers but should not be allowed to
remain there.

Sometimes it will be beneficial to moisten the foliage of plants without
wetting the soil. Just after repotting and in fighting plant lice, red
spider and other insect enemies (see Chapter XVII) this treatment will
be necessary. A fine-rose spray on the watering-can may be used but a
rubber plant-sprinkler costing about sixty-five cents, will be very much
better, as with it the water will be applied in a finer spray with a
great deal more force and to either the upper or under surface of the
leaves--a point of great importance.

Plants growing in windows, where the light strikes them only, or mostly,
from one side, should be frequently turned to prevent their growing
one-sided.

Also do not hesitate to use knife, scissors and fingers in keeping them
symmetrical and shapely. One of the greatest mistakes that amateurs make
is in being afraid to cut an ungainly or half leafless branch. Instead
of injuring a plant, such pruning frequently is an actual benefit.

If neglected, dust will quickly gather on the leaves and clog their
pores, and as the plants have no way of breathing but through their
leaves, you can see what the result must be. Syringing, mentioned
above, will help. They should also be wiped clean with a soft dry cloth,
especially such plants as palms, rubbers, Rex begonias. Do _not_ use
olive oil or any other sticky substance on the cloth. Always remove at
once any broken, dead or diseased leaf or flower. Do not let flowering
plants go to seed: nothing else will so quickly bring the blooming
period to a close.

Do not try to force your plants into continuous growth. Almost without
exception they demand a period of rest, and if you do not allow them to
take it when nature suggests, they will take it themselves when you do
not want them to. The natural rest period is during the winter. During
this time a _very_ little water will do and no repotting or manuring
should be attempted.

It is, however, desirable in some cases, as with many of the flowering
plants, to change the season bloom, as we want their beauty during the
winter. In such cases they should be _made_ to rest during the summer,
by withholding water and keeping them disbudded.

Many beginners get the idea that as soon as any plant has filled its pot
with roots it must be immediately shifted to a larger one. While this is
as a rule true with small plants, being grown on, it is not at all true
of mature plants, especially those wanted to bloom in the house. When a
shift has been given, at the beginning of the growing period, no
further change should be necessary during the winter. It will, however,
be well, if not imperative, to furnish food in the form of liquid
manures when the soil in the pot has become filled with roots. It should
be applied from one to three times a week--the former being sufficient
for a plant showing ordinary growth.

All the animal manures, cow, horse, sheep, hen, etc.,--are good to use
in this way, but cow manure is the safest and best. Place three or four
inches of half-rotted manure in a galvanized iron pail, fill with water,
and after standing a few hours it will be ready for use. The pail can be
refilled. As long as the liquid becomes the color of weak tea it will be
strong enough to use. Give from a gill to a pint at each application to
a six-or eight-inch pot. The other manures should not be made quite so
strong. For liquid chemicals see page 19 or mix up the following: 5 lbs.
nitrate of soda, 3 of nitrate of potash and 2 of phosphate of ammonia,
and use 1 oz. of the mixture dissolved in five or six gallons of water.

REPOTTING

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In the course of a week or two, if a plant is knocked out, the small
white roots may be seen coming through the ball of earth and beginning
to curl around the outside of it. The time for repotting the young
plants will have been reached when these roots have made a thick network
around the ball of earth, but before they become brown and woody; that
is, while they are still white and succulent--"working roots," as the
florists term them.

[Illustration: Potted cuttings ready for shifting to a larger pot. From
left to right, ivy geranium, snapdragon, geranium and dusty miller]

[Illustration: Some plants, like Rex begonia, will strike root from
their leaves if perforated with a knife into damp sand]

[Illustration: In all potted plants an important detail is the placing
of rough drainage material, such as broken pieces of pot, charcoal,
ashes, etc., at the bottom, to prevent moisture from settling in the
soil and souring it]

The shift, as a general rule, should be to a pot only one size larger,
that is, from a three to a four, or a four to a five.

Remove the plant from the old pot by holding the stem of the plant
between the index and middle finger of the left hand, and with the right
inverting the pot and rapping the edge of the rim sharply against the
edge of the bench or table.

Before putting the plant into the new pot, remove the top half inch of
soil and gently loosen up the lower half of the ball of roots, if it is
firmly matted.

Put soil in the bottom of the pot to such a depth that when the ball of
roots is covered with half an inch or so of new soil, the surface
thereof will still be about half an inch below the rim of the pot. Hold
the plant in place with the left hand, and with the right fill in around
it, making the soil firm as before. Water and care is the same as after
the first potting.

Pots four inches or over in size should be crocked to make certain of
sufficient drainage. The best material to use is broken charcoal, in
pieces one-half to an inch in diameter. Pieces of broken pots, cinders
or rough pebbles will do. Be sure that the drainage hole is not covered;
if pieces of pots are used, put the concave side down over the hole, as
illustrated facing page 41. The depth of the drainage material, or
crocking, will be from half an inch to three inches, according to the
size of the pot. Over this rough material put a little screenings, leaf
mould or sphagnum moss, to prevent the soil's washing down into it. Then
fill in with soil and pot in the regular way.

The time for repotting house plants is at the beginning of their growing
season. It varies, of course, with the different kinds. The great
majority, however, start into new growth in the spring and should be
repotted from the middle of March to the middle of May. Plants kept
through the winter for stock plants are usually started up and repotted
early in February to induce the abundant new growth that furnishes
cuttings. The method of repotting will depend on the nature of the
plant. Soft-wooded plants, like geraniums, are put in in the ordinary
way and firmed with the fingers. The palms do best with the new soil
more firmly packed about the old ball of roots. Hard-wooded plants with
very fine roots, like the azaleas, should have the soil rammed down
firmly about the old ball; for which purpose it is necessary to use a
blunt, flat piece of wood, of convenient size. In repotting such
plants, it is well to let the ball of roots soak several minutes in a
pail of water before putting into the new pot. If very densely matted,
make several holes in it with a spike, working it around, and leave the
soil a little lower at the center of the pot to induce the water to run
down through the root ball.

Plants that have been crocked in the old pots should have this material
removed, if possible, before going into their new quarters.

Plants in large pots often use up all the plant food available, and
where they cannot be given still larger pots become quite a problem.
They are usually handsome specimens which one does not like to lose.
Remove such a plant from its pot and carefully _wash_ all the soil from
the roots; clean the pot and carefully repot in fresh soil in the same
pot. The result will be extremely satisfactory.

Until one has become proficient in the art of potting, it will pay well
to practice with every plant and cutting that may be had. If you have
mistakes to make, make them with these, so that your favorite plants may
be handled safely.

POTTING

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Cuttings and small plants are put into two-inch or "thumb" pots. Some of
the larger growing geraniums or very sturdy plants require
two-and-one-half inch pots, but the smaller size should be used when
possible.

The soil for pots up to three inches should be screened, but not made
too fine. A coal-ash sifter, or half-inch screen will do. The soil
should be made up as directed in Chapter III.

The pots should be thoroughly cleaned with sand and water, or by a
several days' soaking, and then wiping out with a cloth, if they have
been used before. An old pot, with dirt sticking to the inside and the
pores all clogged up, will not do good work. Old or new, they should be
immersed in water until through bubbling just before using; otherwise
they will absorb too much moisture from the soil.

The method of potting should depend somewhat upon the condition of the
roots of the cutting. If they are less than half an inch long, as they
should be, fill the pot level full of soil, make a hole with the
forefinger of one hand; insert the cutting to about half its depth with
the other, rap the bottom of the pot smartly against the bench to settle
the earth, and then press it down firmly with the thumbs, leveling it
as the pot is placed to one side in an empty flat. (The jarring down of
the soil should precede the firming with the thumbs, as this will
compact the soil more evenly within the pot.) This should leave the soil
a little below the rim of the pot, making a space to hold water when
watering; and the cutting should be so firmly embedded that it cannot be
moved without breaking the soil.

With cuttings whose roots have been allowed to grow an inch or more in
length, and plants with a considerable ball of roots--as they should
have when coming from the transplanting flats--it is better partly to
fill the pot. Hold the plant or cutting in position with the left hand
and press the soil in about it with the right hand--firming it as
directed in the former case. With a little practice either operation can
be performed very rapidly. Florists do four to five hundred pots an
hour.

When for any reason it is necessary to put a small or weakly rooted
plant or cutting, or a cutting that is just on the point of sending
forth roots, in a pot that seems too large, _put it near the edge of the
pot_, instead of in the middle. This will often save a plant which would
otherwise be lost, and at the next shift it can, of course, be put in
the center of the pot.

If no small pots are at hand, several small plants or cuttings can be
put around the edge of a four-or five-inch pot, with good results. Care
must be taken, however, not to give too much water.

As soon as the little plants or cuttings are potted up, give them a
thorough watering and place them where the holes in the bottoms of the
pots will not be clogged with soil. A large flat, in the bottom of which
an inch of pebbles, coarse sand or sifted cinders has been put, will be
a good place for them. Keep shaded during the hot part of the day for
three or four days. At first the pots may be placed as close together as
possible, but in a very short time--two weeks at the most, if the
growing conditions are right--they will need to be put farther apart.
Nothing will injure them so quickly as being left crowded together where
they cannot get enough air. Better, if necessary, give or throw away
half of them than to attempt to grow fifty plants where you have room
for only two dozen.

As before, water only when necessary, _i.e._, when the surface of the
soil begins to look whitish and dry. Then water thoroughly. Until by
practice you know just what they need, knock a few out of the pots, say
fifteen minutes after watering, and see if the ball of earth has been
wet through to the bottom; if not, you are not doing the job thoroughly.
If the pots do not dry out between waterings, but stay muddy and heavy,
either your soil is not right or you have used pots too large for your
plants.

TRANSPLANTING, POTTING AND REPOTTING

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Directions have already been given for preparing the best soil for house
plants. This soil, sifted through a coarse screen--say a one-half inch
mesh--is just right for "pricking off" or transplanting the little
seedlings.

Use flats similar to those prepared for the seeds, but an inch deeper.
In the bottom put an inch of the rough material screened from sods and
manure. Give this a thorough watering; cover with an inch of the sifted
soil, and wet this down also. Then fill the box nearly level full of the
sifted soil, which should be neither dry nor moist enough to be sticky.
Take care also that this soil is not much--if any--colder than the
temperature in which the seedlings have been kept.

It is usually best to transplant the seedlings just as soon as they are
large enough to be handled, which is as soon as the second true leaf
appears. Nothing is gained by leaving them in the seed boxes longer, as
they soon begin to crowd and get lanky and are more likely to be
attacked by the damping off fungus than they are after being
transferred.

Find a table or bench of the right height upon which to work
comfortably. With a flat stick, or with a transplanting fork (which can
be had for fifteen cents) lift a bunch of the little plants out, dirt
and all, clear to the bottom of the box. Hold this clump in one hand and
with the other gently tear away the seedlings, one at a time, discarding
all crooked or weak ones. Never attempt to pull the seedlings from the
soil in the flat, as the little rootlets are very easily broken off.
They should come away almost intact, as shown facing page 48. Water the
seed flats the day previous to transplanting, so that the soil will be
in just the right condition, neither wet enough to make the roots
sticky, nor so dry as to crumble away.

Take the little seedling by the stem between the thumb and forefinger,
and with a small round pointed stick or dibber, or with the forefinger
of the other hand, make a hole deep enough to receive the roots and
about half the length--more if the seedlings are lanky--of the stem. As
the little plant is dropped into place, the tips of both thumbs and
forefingers, by one quick, firm movement, compress the earth firmly both
down on the roots and against the stem so that the plant sticks upright
and may not readily be pulled out. Of course there is a knack about it
which cannot be put into words--I could have pricked off a hundred
seedlings in the time I am spending in trying to describe the
operation--but a little practice will make one reasonably efficient at
it.

When the flat is completed, jar it slightly to level the surface and
give a watering, being careful, however, to bend down the plants as
little as possible. Set the plants on a level surface, and if the sun is
bright, shade with newspapers during the middle of the day for two or
three days.

From now on until ready for potting, keep at the required temperature,
as near as possible, and water thoroughly on bright mornings when
necessary, but only when the drying of the surface shows that the soil
needs it. Above all, give all the air possible, while maintaining the
necessary heat. The quality of the mature plants will depend more upon
this precaution than upon anything else in the way of care.

The little seedlings are sometimes put from the seed flat directly into
small pots. I strongly advise the method described above. The flats save
room and care, and the plants do much better for a few weeks than they
will in pots. Where room is scarce, it is well to transplant cuttings
into flats instead of potting them off. As soon, however, as either the
transplanted plants or cuttings begin to crowd in the flats, they must
be put into pots. How soon this will be depends largely, of course, upon
the amount of room they have been given. As many as a hundred are often
set in a flat 13x19 inches, but it is well to give them twice as much
space as that if room permits.

Gardening Indoors

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The medium most commonly used in which to root cuttings is clean,
medium-coarse sand, such as builders use. It must not be so fine as to
pack tightly, nor so coarse as to fit loosely about the cuttings, and
admit air so freely as to dry them out.

Make a flat similar to that used for starting seeds, but four or five
inches deep. Place in the bottom an inch or two of gravel or coal ashes,
covered lightly with moss or a single thickness of old bag, and then
fill nearly full of clean sand. Make this level, and give a thorough
soaking. After drying out for an hour or so, it is ready for the
cuttings.

Mark the box off in straight lines, two or three inches apart, and
insert the cuttings as closely as possible without touching, and to a
depth of about one-third or one-half their length. A small, pointed
stick, or dibber, will be convenient in getting them in firmly. Wet them
down to pack the sand closely around them.

The best temperature for the room in which the cutting box is to be kept
will be from fifty to fifty-five degrees at night. Like the seed box,
however, it will be greatly helped by ten or fifteen degrees of bottom
heat in addition. For method of giving this extra bottom heat, see page
26.

If the box is kept in a bright sunny place, shade the cuttings with a
piece of newspaper during the heat of the day, to prevent wilting, and
if the weather is so hot that the room is warmer than seventy degrees,
an occasional light sprinkling will help to keep them fresh.

Never let the sand dry out or all your work will be lost. As a rule, it
will require a thorough soaking every morning.

With these precautions taken, the cuttings should begin to throw out
roots in from eight to twenty days, according to conditions and
varieties. Do not let them stay in the sand after the roots form; it is
much better to pot them off at once, before the roots get more than half
an inch long. If some of the cuttings have not rooted but show a
granulated condition where they were cut, they will be safe to pot off,
as they will, as a rule, root in the soil.

The above method is the one usually employed. There is another, however,
just as easy and more certain in results, especially where bottom heat
cannot easily be had. It is called the "saucer" system of propagation.
Make the cuttings as described above. Put the sand in a deep,
water-tight dish, such as a glazed earthenware dish or a deep soup
plate, and pack the cuttings in as thickly as necessary. Wet the sand to
the consistency of mud and keep the dish in a warm light place. The
temperature may be higher than when using the sand box, and there will
not be a necessity for shading. _The sand must be kept constantly
saturated_: that is the whole secret of success with this method of
rooting cuttings. Pot them off as soon as the roots begin to grow.

Cuttings made by the two systems described above are usually taken in
autumn, or in spring. When it is necessary to get new plants during
June, July or August, a method called "layering in the air" will have to
be resorted to if you would be certain of results. Instead of taking the
cutting clean off, cut it nearly through; the smallest shred of wood and
bark will keep it from wilting, but it should be kept upright, for if it
hangs down the end of the shoot will immediately begin to turn up,
making a U-shaped cutting. The cuttings are left thus partly attached
for about eight days or until they are thoroughly calloused, when they
are taken off and potted, like rooted cuttings, but giving a little more
sand in the soil and not quite so much water. They are, of course,
shaded for several days.

Some of the plants ordinarily grown in the house, such as Rex begonias,
rubber plants, sword ferns, are best increased by leaf cuttings,
topping, layering or other methods differing from seed sowing or rooting
cuttings. These several operations will be described in treating of the
plants for which they are used.

Having carried our little plants safely through the first stage of their
growth, it is necessary that we use some care in getting them
established as individuals, and give them the best possible preparation
for successful service in their not unimportant world.

STARTING PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS

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While many plants are best started from seed, as described in the
preceding chapter, there are many which cannot be so reproduced;
especially named varieties which will not come true from seeds, but
revert to older and inferior types.

Also it very frequently happens that one has a choice plant of some sort
of which the seed is not to be obtained, and in this case also it
becomes necessary to reproduce the plant in some other way.

Where large numbers of plants are to be started, and they may be had
from seed, that is usually the best way in which to work up a supply:
but where only a few are wanted, as for house plants or use in a small
garden, propagation by cuttings is the quickest and most satisfactory
method. Practically all of the house plants, including most of those
which can be started from seed, may be increased in this way.

The matter of first importance, when starting plants by this system, is
to have strong, healthy cuttings of the right degree of hardiness. Take
your cuttings only from plants that are in full vigor, and growing
strongly. They should be taken from what is termed "new growth," that is
the terminal portions of shoots, which have not yet become old and hard.
The proper condition of the wood may be determined by the following
test: if the stem is bent between the fingers it should snap (like a
green bean); if it bends and doubles without breaking it is either too
old and will not readily root, or too soft and will be almost sure to
wilt or rot.

The cutting should be from two to four inches long, according to the
plant and variety to be propagated. It should be cut off slant-wise, as
this will assist in its being pushed firmly down into the cutting box.
It may be cut either near, or between a joint or eye--with the exception
of a few plants, noted later. The lower leaves should be taken off
clean; those remaining, if large, shortened back, as shown in the
illustration facing page 29. Then the plant will not be so likely to
wilt.

If the cuttings cannot be put in the propagating medium immediately
after being made; keep them in the shade, and if necessary sprinkle to
prevent wilting. I once obtained a batch of chrysanthemum cuttings from
a brother florist who said that they were so badly wilted that they
could never be rooted. I immersed them all in water for several hours,
which revived them, and had the satisfaction of rooting almost every
one.

Humedad Ideal para las semillas

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Si los pisos de semilla o cazuelas están preparados por el método más reciente sugerido en el post anterior, es probable que no necesita más agua, o no más
que uno, hasta que las semillas aumenten. si se necesita seguir con el riego, en
cualquier caso, será mostrado por la desecación de el suelo en la superficie.
En el caso de pequeñas semillas, como son la mayor parte de semillas de flor , la humedad en el suelo será conservada mucho más largo tiempo conservando la caja cubierta de un panel de cristal, ligeramente levantado en un lado. Si la caja es mantenida en la luz del sol brillante, proteger el cristal del sol con una hoja de papel, hasta que las plantitas aumenten, que será en un día o dos con algunas clases de semillas, y semanas con otras diferentes.

Si se cultiva en invierno o principios de primavera, mientras que el
los días son cortos y aún bajo el sol, se necesita muy poca
agua, y debería ser aplicada sólo durante mañanas brillantes. En otoño y
fines de la primavera, especialmente este último, se necesita más, y si la
caja se seca rápidamente, usted debe aplicar agua por la noche. En cualquiera de los dos
casos, no aplicar hasta que el agua se esta empezando a secar en la superficie,
o hasta que el suelo no absorbió fácilmente más.

Si usted toma las precauciones, y tiene las facilidades de hacerlo, la mejor manera de mantener el suministro de humedad en la cajas de las semillas es la es de colocarles, cuando se seca el suelo, en mas o menos una pulgada de agua (como descrito para la siembra) y dejarles absorber lo que ellos necesitan, o hasta que la superficie del suelo se haga húmeda. Esto hace el trabajo más uniformemente, y es también un salvaguarda para la humectación de las semillas.

Temperatura para la Germinación de las Semillas

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Blogalaxia Tags: Germinación+de+semillas

La temperatura requerida para comenzar las semillas de cualquier planta será la misma para cuando se es cultivada
La germinación será más fuerte y más rápida, sin embargo, si diez a quince grados más, sobre todo de noche, pueden ser suministrados. Si pueden dar esto como lo que las floristas llaman " el calor inferior, " es decir aplicadas bajo la caja de semilla, tanto mejor.

Hasta que la germinación en realidad ocurra, hay poco peligro de conseguir el suelo demasiado caliente, como esto se calienta por la parte inferior muy despacio. La caja puede ser colocada sobre el radiador de vapor, sobre un soporte sobre el radiador de piso, o sobre un par de ladrillos al dorso de la gama de cocina; o la caja puede ser apoyada sobre una lámpara o la pequeña estufa de kerosene, el cuidado siendo tomado para tener un pedazo de metal entre la madera y el calor directo de la llama. Durante los primeros días puede ser mantenido a la sombra, pero en cuanto las semillas inicien la germinacion deben darles toda la luz posible.

Como sembrar las semillas de flores

2007-12-07T07:14:00.000-08:00

Blogalaxia Tags: Semillas+flores

Las instrucciones por lo general dadas deben cubrir semillas de flor a de tres a cinco veces su propia profundidad. Usted, si le gusta, puede tomar una regla de un pie y tratar de medir el diámetro de la semilla de mignonette o una begonia; pero usted probablemente hará ahorrar tiempo por simplemente tratando de cubrir pequeñas semillas tan ligeramente como posible. Separo mis filas de semilla con el punto de un lápiz - que tengo a mano de atrás de mi oído para escribir las etiquetas -- sembrar la
semillas finamente, y lo más uniformemente como posible por sacudiéndolo con cuidado de una esquina del sobre de semilla, que es dado un toque ligeramente con el lápiz, y luego hacer presión cada fila con el borde de un una tabla. Preparar el suelo, los mas fino como sea
posible -- cubra las semillas de vista -- y pulse la superficie plana
Con un pequeño pedazo de tabla. para terminar la operación deja ke se filtre una luz muy lijera y rociar un poco de agua con una ragadera de plantas.

Humedad del suelo para las semillas

2007-12-05T10:53:00.000-08:00

La forma habitual es rellenar las casillas y sembrar la semilla, pero voy a mencionar aquí un método que he utilizado en mi propio trabajo durante dos años. Al rellenar la caja, ponerla en algún lugar donde
Puede ser regada libremente, como en el sótano, de ser demasiado frío para
trabajar al aire libre. Después de poner en la primera capa gruesa de materiales, dar
un minucioso remojo y luego poner alrededor de dos tercios del resto de
el suelo necesario, dar a fondo también el riego. el resultado del nivel del suelo con las semillas se debe nivelara antes del riego y debe ser justo lo suficiente para humedecer la superficie y que se mantenga
en el lugar, si es seco. El mismo resultado se puede obtener mediante el llenado y
siembra en la caja de la forma habitual y, a continuación, que lo coloque en algún lugar " tal
como el fregadero de la cocina" en aproximadamente una pulgada de agua, y dejando hasta
que la humedad llegue a la superficie. Cualquiera de estas formas es
Mucho más segura que el antiguo método de tratar de empapar el suelo a través de
La superficie después de la plantación.

Después de llenar la caja como se indica, que el suelo quede perfectamente y sin problemas.
Nivele con un pequeño pedazo de placa plana, o un ladrillo. No deje abajo
duro, sólo que sea firme. Luego marcar estrechas líneas rectas, una a
dos pulgadas de distancia, en función del tamaño de la semilla que se sembró.

Blogalaxia Tags: jardin
Suelos
Semillas
plantas+jardin

Preparación del suelo del Jardin

2007-12-04T15:45:00.000-08:00

En caso de que la mayoría de los principiantes no intentan con semillas es por que no les gusta p
reparar el suelo. Ellos están dispuestos a tomar cualquier
cantidad de problemas con el riego y el calor y todo eso, pero no van a
fijar un suelo adecuado. El suelo de la caja de semillas no tienen por qué ser ricos, de hecho,
pero debe ser muy poroso y es muy ligero
, sobre todo para esas pequeñas semillas ya que la mayoría de las flores tienen. Tal
el suelo puede ser descompuesto mezclado de turba (greda o jardín), y la hoja de molde
brusca arena, que se utiliza en proporciones iguales. Si se utiliza la greda arcillosa,
pueden adoptar incluso una proporción mayor de arena. La mezcla resultante debe
ser extremadamente fina y desmoronándose, y casi sentir "la luz como una pluma"
en la mano. Si la turba y moldes no han sido ya controlados, frote
el compost a través de un tamiz de no más de cuarto de pulgada de malla -- como
un carbón ceniza de tamiz. Esta selección también ayudará a incorporar los ingredientes de una manera uniforme en el fondo

Deje agujeros en la caja de las semillas para el drenaje, es mejor tomar
aún más las precauciones en esta materia, al cubrir la parte inferior de la
caja con tierra - una pulgada de grueso de los materiales. En la parte superior de
este preparado poner el suelo, el llenado de la caja en una cuarta parte de
una pulgada de la parte de arriba, abajo y embalaje así en las esquinas ya lo largo de
lados y extremos. El cuadro no debe ser llenado nivel completo, ya que nesesita espacio para el riego diario de la planta

Blogalaxia Tags: suelos
semillas
Jardin
Tecnicas+jardin

Semillas de plantas de jardin

2007-12-02T14:20:00.001-08:00

Una de las maneras de conseguir un suministro de plantas para la casa es empezar
De las semillas. Con un número de variedades, se obtienen mejores resultados
por este método que por ningún otro. La mayoría de las plantas anuales, y muchos
De las bienales y perennes, se reproduce mejor de esta manera.

Simple como el arte de las plantas a partir de semillas puede parecer, hay un
número de cosas que deben ser de pensamiento, y de manera correcta. Debemos
darles una correcta situacion, el suelo, la temperatura, que abarca y la cantidad de humedad, y una vez germinadas necesitan una atención especial, hasta que crescan y empiecen en su camino como plantas individuales.

El número de plantas de un tipo que se requiere para la casa es
Naturalmente, no grande, y por esa razón a menudo probar de iniciar principiantes
Sus semillas en macetas. Pero un bote no es una buena cosa para tratar de empezar.
En las plantas: la cantidad de tierra es demasiado pequeño y se seca rápidamente.

Semillas

Cacerolas son mejores, pero aún tienen que vigilar con mucha cautela. Una Caja de madera, o de plano, es mejor todavía. Cigar cajas que se utilizan a menudo con un buenos resultados, sino de un modo más satisfactorio es hacer algunas en piso ordinario.
Desde una caja de jabón o pirata comprado en la tienda de comestibles. dividir longitudinalmente en secciones de dos pulgadas de profundidad, teniendo cuidado a la primera extraer clavos y grapas de cable en el camino, y de abajo con estos materiales del mismo tipo. Ya sea salir de la parte inferior juntas de media pulgada de distancia, o hacer siete
U ocho agujeros de media pulgada en la parte inferior de cada una de ellas, para proporcionar a fondo buen drenaje. Si se van a utilizar en la casa, colocarles una capa de pintura o dos las va a hacer muy presentables. Por supuesto, acomodar gran numero de semillas en cada cuadro.
Puede plantar en filas, como se describe más adelante, y, por tanto, poner
De tres a una docena de tipos en cada caja.

Blogalaxia Tags: suelos
semillas
Jardin
Tecnicas+jardin

Fertilizantes para Jardin

2007-11-29T05:46:00.000-08:00

Hay muchas marcas de mezcla de abonos preparado especialmente para su empleo en
El invernadero o en las plantas en macetas. Existe la tentación de utilizar estos
En razón de su forma compacta conveniente, y porque son más
Agradable de manejar. Como regla general, sin embargo, mucho mejores resultados
Se obtiene sobre la base de estiércol podrido.

Si desea utilizar fertilizantes en todos -- y para ciertos fines que
Será muy valiosa -- Quisiera aconsejar a limitar la lista a la
Pura siguientes materiales que no son mixtos, y que son siempre
Uniformes; nitrato de sosa, harina de semilla de algodón, puro hueso multa terreno, y
Cenizas de madera. (Varios de los otros productos químicos son buenos, pero no tanto
De uso común.)

Ground hueso es el más valioso de ellos. Debería ser lo que se conoce como
"Multa terreno", o el polvo de huesos. Se induce un fuerte crecimiento pero firme, y
Puede utilizarse con seguridad en el suelo en macetas, que complementa el estiércol como
Fuente de alimento de las plantas. De dos a tres cuartos de una fanega de tierra es
El derecho al uso. No conviene mezclar bien a través de la
Suelo. También puede ser utilizado a menudo como una de las principales ventajas de apósito
Plantas que se han agotado los alimentos en sus macetas, o en desarrollo
Yemas o botones. El trabajo de dos o tres cucharadas en la parte superior del suelo.

Nitrato de sosa es la siguiente en importancia. Es muy fuerte y debe ser
Cuidadosamente utilizados, siendo la manera más segura de utilizarlo como estiércol líquido, uno
O dos teaspoonsful disuelto en tres galones de agua. Si el primer
Disuelto en una pinta de agua caliente, y luego añade a la otra, se
Ser realizado con mayor rapidez. Use una pinta más o menos de esta solución en el riego. El
Resultados a menudo será maravilloso.

Harina de semilla de algodón en condiciones de seguridad puede ser mezclado con el suelo, como la de los huesos, pero
Requiere un poco de tiempo en el que se pudra, antes de que la planta puede hacer uso de ella.

Wood cenizas también son seguras, y la buena agregar a la tierra en macetas. Ayudan
A hacer una empresa, difícil crecimiento, como resultado de la potasa que aportar.
En caso de que las plantas parecen estar haciendo un muy rápido, el crecimiento acuosa, madera cenizas
Puede ser aplicado a la superficie y trabajó pulgadas

Con un suelo preparado como se indica en la primera parte de este capítulo,
Habrá muy poca necesidad de utilizar cualquier otro de los fertilizantes,
Hasta que las plantas se han trasladado en su última ollas y les han llenado
Con raíces. Cuando se llega a esta etapa el uso de los purines como
Describe más adelante será a menudo beneficiosa. Si, en cambio, una planta de
Cualquier motivo parece atrás, o más lento en el crecimiento de lo que debe ser, un
Solicitud o dos de nitrato de sosa, producirán resultados casi
Maravilloso. No se olvide, sin embargo, que sus problemas no se deben a algunos
Error en la temperatura, ventilación o de riego, antes de que éstas
A impropio o agotado el suelo.

Ahora, después de haber tenido la paciencia de saber algo acerca de las condiciones
En virtud de la cual las plantas deben de tener éxito, hemos de proceder a la más
Realmente interesante labor de hacerlos crecer.

Abonos para jardin

2007-11-29T05:40:00.000-08:00

El estiércol de una especie es esencial para el crecimiento de las plantas en macetas o
Cajas, tanto a causa de la planta de alimentos se añade al suelo, y porque
Que mejora su estado mecánico y sponginess o retención de agua
Calidad. Thoroughly podrido de estiércol de caballo o caballo y estiércol de vaca mezclado es
Con mucho, el mejor de los casos. Estiércol de vaca por sí sola, o estiércol de cerdo, es inhomogéneo y fría,
Y gallinas, ovejas, palomas u otros abonos especiales no están a salvo en el
Manos de los principiantes, ya que son una de las partes, siendo especialmente rica en
Nitrógeno y probablemente ya sea para quemar las plantas o para causar demasiado suave y
Acuosa crecimiento.

Esto nos lleva hasta el punto de que es necesario decir algunas palabras
Acerca de la teoría de los abonos, ya que no son todos iguales y lo que
Ser prudente para dar una planta bajo algunas circunstancias en las que otros serían
Muy mal, al igual que usted no piensa en la alimentación de un bebé a beefsteak
Acaba de recuperarse de los cólicos, si bien sería una muy buena cosa para
Un hombre hambriento que iba a vio a su montón de madera.

Plantas de todo tipo -- en potes, en el jardín o en un plazo de diez acres
Mucho -- requieren tres tipos de alimentos elementos: nitrógeno, ácido fosfórico y
Potasa. Estos elementos pueden ser alimentadas a las plantas de diversas formas; para
Ejemplo, el nitrógeno en el estiércol de gallina, o en la harina de semilla de algodón, o de sales
De los campos de nitrato de Chile, conocido como el nitrato de sosa, el
Ácido fosfórico del hueso, o de ácido fosfato (un terreno de roca tratada
Con ácido), la potasa cenizas de la madera o de sales de potasa alemán
(Muriato o sulfato de potasa). Las plantas, a lo mejor de si, exigir que
Los tres elementos deberán estar presentes en cantidades suficientes para abastecer
Sus deseos.

No es necesario, sin embargo, a ir muy profundamente en la ciencia de la
Alimentos vegetales con el fin de cultivar plantas con éxito. Afortunadamente, el estiércol
Podrido como se ha descrito anteriormente, presenta los tres elementos en la
Derecho proporciones. Vaca, ovejas, gallinas y palomas estiércol son los más utilizados como
Se describe más adelante, bajo el epígrafe "Liquid Manuring."

Blogalaxia Tags: Abonos+jardin
fertilizantes+jardin

Suelos abonos y fertilizantes de jardineria

2007-11-18T17:08:00.000-08:00

El suelo debe proporcionar el fundamento de toda la vida vegetal. Por siglos,
Los que han crecido las cosas se han dado cuenta de la vital importancia de contar con
El suelo rico o bien con la planta de alimentos, y si esto es importante
En el cultivo de plantas en el campo o jardín de flores, en la que cada vegetal o
Flor tiene de uno a varios pies cúbicos de tierra en la que crecer, cómo
Es imperativo contar con un suelo rico en una maceta o una planta donde cada casilla
Planta puede tener sólo unas pocas pulgadas cúbicas!

Pero el problema no es tanto saber que las plantas se debe dar
Tierra rica, como para saber cómo le proporcione. Recuerdo perfectamente que mi primera
Intento de hacer suelo rico y pensando cómo iba mi sorpresa
Abuela, que trabajaron sobre sus plantas en macetas todos los días de su vida,
Y todavía no los tienen es tan grande como creció en el jardín de flores. I
Había visto el hombre contrató a poner fertilizante en el jardín. Ese fue el
Secreta! Así que recibí una caja de madera de unos dos tercios del pleno suave jardín
Tierra, y la mayoría de lleno el espacio que queda con fertilizantes, así
Mezclado en el suelo, lo que había visto él solucionarlo. Recuerdo que mi
La ansiedad no es que me aparece demasiado fertilizante en el suelo, pero que yo
Tendría tanto fuera de la bolsa que sería perdido. Gran efecto,
Fue mi disgusto y decepción, doce horas después de fijar cuidadosamente
De riego y mi premio a los posibles plantas, a la notificación de que habían
Perceptible convertido amarillo y marchitado. Y lo ha hecho sin duda el suelo
Ricos.

Así que el problema no es en absoluto tan sencillo como podría ser en primera supone.
No sólo hay suficiente alimento de las plantas se añade a la tierra pero debe ser
En ciertas formas, y ni demasiado ni demasiado poco puede darse si
Los mejores resultados han de lograrse.

Ahora es un hecho establecido más allá de toda controversia que no sólo los alimentos, sino
El aire y el agua, así como, se presentarán a las raíces de plantas de crecimiento;
Y este es el caso, la _mechanical_ condición de los suelos en los que
La planta está creciendo tiene mucho que ver con su éxito o fracaso.
Debe ser lo que se denomina porosos y friables suelo -- es decir, un modo
Luz y abierto que se vaciara el agua a través de ella sin hacer una
Compacto, fangoso masa. Una de las cosas que me he dado cuenta de mi especial
Fertilizantes del suelo, ya se ha mencionado, que fue resuelto, después de ser
Regada, en una masa sólida de la que no la fuga de agua y en
Que el aire no puede penetrar.

Es casi imposible encontrar un suelo adecuado para plantas de interior, así,
Cosa por lo general la única manera de obtener un buen suelo es mezclarlo
Usted mismo. Para este fin se utilizan varios ingredientes. Si usted vive en
Un pueblo o barrio, donde se podrán contratar, su problema
No es difícil. Take acerca de la igualdad de las partes de turba podrido, podrido
Estiércol de caballo y de hojas de moldes de los bosques y homogeneizar y
Junto, desde la adición de un sexto a un tercio, a granel, de arena gruesa.
Si una considerable cantidad de suelo será necesario en el curso del año,
Será bien tener algún lugar, como un gran bin o barril, en el que
Para mantener un suministro de cada ingrediente. La turba debe ser cortado tres o cuatro
Pulgadas de grosor, y apilados en capas de césped con las partes,
Dar un remojo de vez en cuando, si el tiempo es seco, para apresurar la podredumbre.
El estiércol debe ser descompuesto bajo cubierta, y convertido con frecuencia en
Primero en evitar la quema a cabo, o de turba y estiércol puede ser descompuesto en conjunto,
Apilado en capas alternas y fork más de dos o tres veces
Después de podredumbre ha comenzado. El estiércol proporciona alimentos a la planta de compostaje,
La turba podrido "cuerpo", la hoja de molde cualidades de absorción de agua, y la
Arena, drenaje cualidades.

Si la tierra es querido a la vez, y no podrido turba se tendrán, buen uso
Greda jardín, de preferencia de algún lugar que se encontraba bajo el trébol de turba
Año antes. Si es difícil obtener estiércol bien podrido, calle
Barreduras que puede ser utilizado como un sustituto, y los antiguos chips de la suciedad de debajo de la
Montón de madera, o de la parte inferior del cobertizo de madera, si tiene un piso de tierra, hará
En lugar de la hoja de molde. Peat, o completamente secos y endulzado la inmundicia
También son buenos sustitutos de la hoja de molde. Sutilmente seleccionados cenizas de carbón Mayo
Ocupar el lugar de la arena.

Si usted vive en la ciudad, donde es difícil de obtener y de manejar
Los diversos materiales de mencionar, es la mejor manera para llegar a su suelo listo
Mixto en el floristerías, como fanega llenará numerosas macetas. Si
Prefieren mezclarlo usted mismo, o para añadir cualquiera de los ingredientes de la tierra
Es posible que, la mayoría de floristerías les proporcionarán luz tierra, arena, turba
O moldes de hojas y estiércol podrido, y musgo sphagnum, ollas, platos y
Otras cosas necesarias para su equipo. Si una gran oferta se desea,
Probablemente sería más barato que ir a algún establecimiento en las afueras
De la ciudad en donde las cosas son realmente crecido, que dependerá de la
Floristería minorista más cerca a la mano.

Siembra y suelo listo para usar, cuando debería ser lo suficientemente húmeda para ser prensado en
Una bola de la mano, pero nunca tan húmedo como no a desmoronarse en pedazos de nuevo
Fácilmente debajo de los dedos de la mano.

Blogalaxia Tags: Abonos+jardin
fertilizantes+jardin
suleos+para+jardin

Humedad del jardin

2007-11-18T16:18:00.000-08:00

Al parecer, pensaba en un primer momento, que el buen estado de la humedad
Podría ser proporcionado tan fácilmente en la casa como en cualquier lugar. Y por lo que puede ser
En la medida en la aplicación de agua al suelo se refiere, pero el aire en la mayoría de
Viviendas en el invierno es terriblemente deficiente en la humedad. El hecho de que un
Habitación es tan seco que las plantas no pueden vivir en ella debe sonar una advertencia a
Nosotros, que prácticamente viven allí durante días en un momento, pero no, y
Seguimos contrato todo tipo de problemas de la nariz y la garganta, para decir
Nada de las enfermedades más graves. No habitación demasiado seco para las plantas a vivir en
Es apropiado para la gente a vivir en caliente el aire y los sistemas de calefacción de vapor
Sobre todo, producir una excesiva sequedad de condición de la atmósfera. Esto puede
Hay que superar, en gran medida, por completo o exhaustivo de ventilación y por
Mantenimiento constante de agua en los que puede evaporarse; más de radiadores, etc
Esto debe hacerse por el bien de su propia salud, si no por el de
La planta.

Para más información en cuanto a la ventilación y el riego se encuentran en
Capítulo VII (página 45), pero, antes de que sigamos preocupados por la manera justa de tener
Cuidado de las plantas hay que saber cómo llegar a ellos, y antes de llegar a nosotros
Lo que debe saber para darles a crecer en -- La base de la planta. Por lo tanto, para un
Poco lo que debe ser contenido con los prosaica pero totalmente esencial
Cuestiones de suelo, abonos y fertilizantes, que en el próximo capítulo I
Trataré de aclarar en forma lo más breve posible.

Blogalaxia Tags: Humedad+del+jardin

Temperatura Del Jardin

2007-11-18T16:10:00.000-08:00

Le sigue en importancia a la luz, es la cuestión de la temperatura. El ordinario
Plantas de interior, que se le mantenga en la salud, requieren una temperatura de sesenta y cinco
A setenta y cinco grados durante el día y cincuenta a cincuenta y cinco grados
En la noche. Con frecuencia no será posible mantener la habitación de ir
Inferior en la noche, pero debe ser lo más cerca que sea posible;
Cuarenta y cinco grados de vez en cuando no hacer daño, e incluso varios
Grados inferiores no son mortales, pero si con frecuencia llegó a las plantas
Será revisado y parece que están todavía. En las plantas inactivas, o
Semiáridas condición latente no son tan fácilmente heridos por baja temperatura como
A los que están en pleno crecimiento; también plantas que son muy secas de pie mucho
Más fría que las de suelo húmedo.

La condición adecuada de la temperatura es la más difícil de
Regular y mantener en el cultivo de plantas en la casa. Existe, sin embargo,
Por lo menos una habitación en casi todas las casas en que la noche la temperatura no
No suelen ir por debajo de cuarenta y cinco o cincuenta grados, y de ser necesario todos
Plantas se los puede obtener en una habitación durante mucho frío. Otro
Precaución, que a menudo es guardarlos para moverlos fuera de la
Ventanas; poner hojas de periódico dentro de los paneles, no obstante,
Tocar el vidrio, como un "espacio de aire muerto" debe dejarse entre. Cuando
Que hay peligro de congelación, una lámpara de queroseno o estufa quema en la izquierda
La sala de la noche a la mañana se salvarlos. Nunca, cuando la temperatura exterior
Es bajo cero, en caso de que las plantas donde se deje hojas o flores Mayo
Tocar el vidrio.

Al igual que con el problema de la luz, con el fin de que la temperatura -- especialmente la
Lugar destinado para las plantas, por pequeña o simple un poco de rincón
Que sea, ofrece una mayor facilidad para el suministro de las condiciones adecuadas.
Pero es, por supuesto, no imprescindible, y como ya he dicho, no hay
Probablemente no una casa en veinte cuando un número de tipo de plantas no pueden
Llevado de manera segura durante el invierno.

Luz (condiciones adecuadas del Jardin)

2007-11-18T16:02:00.000-08:00

En primer lugar, casi todas las plantas, tanto de flor o no, debe
Tienen una abundancia de luz, y muchos requieren sol, especialmente durante
La aburrida días de invierno. Plantas sin suficiente luz nunca hacer una
Normal, saludable crecimiento, los tallos son largos, lanky y débiles, el follaje
Tiene un semi transparentes, lavado de salida mirada, y la planta entera cae un
Fáciles víctimas de las enfermedades o insectos enemigos. Incluso las plantas cultivadas en el pleno
Luz de una ventana, como todo el mundo con alguna experiencia en la gestión de ellos
Sabe de la observación, se basará hacia el cristal y convertirse en una de las partes
Con todas las hojas que enfrenta una de las formas. Por lo tanto, incluso con la mejor de las
Condiciones, es necesario, para hacer de ellas un medio sobre cada pocos días,
De preferencia cada vez que se rieguen, con el fin de que puedan mantener
Aún, shapely crecimiento.

Por regla general las plantas con flores, como los geranios y heliotropes,
Requieren más luz y sol para que las crecido follaje, como
Palma de la mano, los helechos y las begonias de hojas decorativas. Es casi
Imposible, durante los meses de invierno, a que ninguna de ellas demasiado
La luz solar y donde no hay ningún peligro de que esto, como ocurre a veces en
Principios de otoño o finales de la primavera, una cortina de la más delgada de material dará
Les amplia protección, la necesidad de no excluir a la luz, pero
Simplemente para romper la acción directa de los rayos solares a través de vidrio.

Una gran variedad de plantas que pueden ser cultivadas en la ventana ordinario de jardín,
Para que la ventana soleada y amplia disposición debe ser seleccionado.
Existen dos métodos de manipulación de las plantas: pueden ser lo
Especímenes individuales en macetas y "platos" o "bandejas" (que no son nada
Más o menos de macetas someras), o pueden ser cultivadas en
Cuadro de una planta, hechas a los fines y, por lo general más o menos decorativo en
Sí, que permitirá armonizar y salió con la belleza de las plantas.

Este último método, el de la creciente en las casillas, ofrece dos distintas
Ventajas, sobre todo cuando es probable que haya tropezado demasiado alto
Una temperatura y la consiguiente sequedad en el aire. Las plantas son más
Fácilmente atendidos de lo que son en potes, que se secan rápidamente y la necesidad
Cambio frecuente, y los efectos de la agrupación y armoniosa decoración Mayo
Que se había garantizado que no es fácil con plantas en macetas. Por otro
Parte, no es posible dar esa cuidadosa atención a las situaciones individuales
Plantas que pueden exigir que cuando se cultivan en macetas, ni puede
Habrá mucho de nuevo arreglo y cambio, cuando éstas sean necesarias -- y
Qué buena ama de casa no es un cambio de escena nacido naturales, de vez en
Tan a menudo el piano alrededor de rodadura al otro lado de la habitación, y
Traslado de la librería o el cambio de las grandes Boston helecho más a los demás
Ventana, por lo que puede verse en el salón?

Si las plantas se mantuvieron en macetas -- y sobre todo esto
Suele ser el método más satisfactorio -- varios estantes de la luz,
Suave madera de una anchura conveniente (seis a doce pulgadas) debe ser
Firmemente, por medio de las horquillas de hierro común, en cada ventana para
Ser utilizado. Se te va a ayudar, tanto en el mantenimiento de las macetas en el lugar y en
Prevención de goteo de agua fangosa hasta el piso o cuadro que figura a continuación,
Si una fina, delgada franja de la madera es clavado en cada extremo de estas plataformas,
La ampliación de una pulgada o dos por encima de ellas. Un par de capas de pintura fuera
Añadir también a la espera y para la vida de estas bandejas y más
Tienden a evitar cualquier molestia por goteo de macetas con drenaje. Dicha plataforma se
Ser mejorado aún más estar cubiertos por una pulgada o dos de profundidad con
De grava gruesa o multa guijarros.

Si bien es posible tener la casa de las plantas en un
Lugar donde la humedad y la temperatura puede ser regulada para ellos

En casi cualquier casa que es posible organizar una amplia plataforma
Con un metal o de azulejos, baldosas de abajo donde plantas pueden ser adecuadamente atendidos

Esto es mucho mejor que la utilización de la copa de platillos, sobre todo para los pequeños
Macetas. Cuando una ventana de la bahía se utiliza, de ser separados de la sala de vidrio
Puertas, o incluso por cortinas, que ayuda mucho en el mantenimiento de un húmedo
Ambiente acerca de las plantas y la prevención de polvo de la solución sobre la
Cuando barrer hojas o polvo que se está haciendo.

Una ventana de caja puede fácilmente ser de las juntas programadas pulgadas de pino, perfectamente
Perfectamente equipados y se unió. Debe ser de seis a diez pulgadas de ancho y seis
A ocho pulgadas de profundidad. Si un cuadro de llanura se utiliza, será necesario
Llevaba pulgadas hoyos cada seis pulgadas o a través de la parte inferior para prever
Llevándose de cualquier exceso de agua -- a pesar de que, con el método de
Llenado de la caja se describe en una sección posterior, los agujeros apenas
Nunca tiene que poner en funcionamiento. Plantas en la casa en el invierno, sin embargo,
Son las probabilidades de sufrir demasiada agua a partir de muy poco, y
Por lo tanto, para evitar la desagradable posibilidad de tener sucia
Drenaje de agua en la reducción de varios pies de la palabra, será
Casi tan fácil, y mucho mejor, tener la caja construido con un
Fondo realizado en dos piezas, ligeramente inclinado hacia el centro, donde un agujero
En el que se hace un corcho puede mantenerse. Un falso fondo de lata o de zinc, con
El número necesario de cortar los agujeros, y con el apoyo de tres o cuatro
Pulgada tiras de madera corriendo longitudinal de la caja, los suministros
Drenaje. Estas tiras deben, por supuesto, ser cortado en el medio para permitir
Toda el agua de desagüe. El falso fondo se hará cargo de cualquier
Ordinaria de los excedentes de agua, que puede ser escurrido en un riego puede
El lanzador o por sacar el corcho. Los detalles de la construcción de ese
Cuadro se muestran en la figura 1. Será mejor que han colocado en la caja a fin de
Su apoyo a los soportes que se pueden cambiar de vez en cuando para finales
Final, por lo tanto, el mantenimiento de las plantas que crecen por igual, y no permitir la
Flores continuamente a su vez la espalda en el interior de la habitación.