The shrubs of dwarf habit available for growing inside in winter are
numerous and valuable. They include a number of the most attractive
plants one may have, and as a rule will stand more hardships in the way
of poor light, low temperature and irregular attention than any of the
other flowering plants.
They differ from the other flowering plants in several ways. They are
harder wooded; the resting spell is more marked and they make growth
and
store up energy for flowering _ahead_ of the blossoming season.
Their differences in habit of growth naturally involve differences in
treatment. In the first place, they are harder to propagate; in many
cases it is better for the amateur to get plants from the florist than
to try to raise them. This is not such a disadvantage as might at first
appear, because most of them can be kept for several years, only
improving with age.
The "snapping" test (page 30) will not apply to many of the shrubs when
taking cuttings. In this case they are made from the new growth after
it becomes firm and well ripened. It should be fresh and plump, and
rooting will be made more certain by bottom heat. Often cuttings of
hard-wooded plants, such as oleander, are rooted in plain water, in
wide-mouthed bottles hung in a warm place in the sun, the water being
frequently renewed or kept fresh with a lump or so of charcoal.
Many of the shrubs are beautiful for summer blooming on the veranda or
in large pots or tubs. These may be kept over winter safely by drying
off and keeping in a frost-proof cellar where they will get little
light. In this way they will come out again in the spring, just as hardy
shrubs do out-of-doors. The earth should not be allowed to get dust dry,
but should not be more than slightly moist; very little, and often no,
water is required, especially if mulching of some sort is put over the
earth in pots or boxes; but it should not be any material that would
harbor rats or mice. The leaves will fall off, but this is not a danger
signal, such plants being deciduous in their natural climates. It will
be best to keep such plants as are to be stored in the cellar, from the
time there is danger of frost until about November first, in an
outbuilding or shed, where they will not freeze. This makes the change
more gradual and natural. The temperature of the cellar should be as
near thirty-four to thirty-eight degrees as possible. About March first
will be time to start giving most plants so treated heat, light and
water again, the latter gradually.
The fact that growth is made in advance of the flowering period means
that the summer care and feeding of such plants is very important.
Plenty of water must be given, and frequent applications of liquid
manure or fertilizers, or top dressing. Flowering shrubs that bloom on
last season's wood, like hydrangeas, should be pruned just after
blooming.
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